JL AuDiO W6's (plz HeLP)

[AujlaPimpn]

I have 3 JL audio w6 dual voice coil 12 inch speakers. i want to put them into my 2001 honda accord. Plz help me with all the setups. like what amp. wat box and whether i should use a band pass box with 2 speakers and use 1 amp for those 2 and put the 3rd speaker in a box by itself and use a 2nd amp jus for that. or whter i should put them in an enclosed box and use 1 amp for all 3 of them. and what kind of amps should i got with? i duno how many watts they are each but i think they are 800 watts weach. so please help me with all the lil specs.. asap..thanx very much

[Buzz1167]

Well, I don't know much about incorperating this into your accord, but I do know about the box types. First of all, if you actually plan on craking it up, your gonna need a few hundred watts, amp manufactuers DO matter, and you get what you pay for, most of the time. Rockford and Sony have good reputations, and I'm sure there are other good ones too, but I dont have experiance with those. Depending on what the inpedance of the indiviudal coils are (4 or 2ohms) I would wire them differently, Ideally you want from 2 to 4 overall ohms (if your amp can handle 2 ohms, which most good ones can.) Chances are they the voice coils are 4 ohms each, so based on that, I would the voice coils in seris with "themselves" and then in parallel with the other 2 subs. So thats be 4+4 = 8 and 1/8 * 3 = 3/8 -> 8/3 or about 3.33ohms. Make sure you get the amp based on the wattage at that ohmage, and based on the RMS watt value of the speakers. If they really are 800rms each, then your gonna want one big ass amp. But seriously, unless their sensitivity is low, you dont need a huge amp. 500 watts @ 4ohms would do it fine, for some pretty loud bass (which I'm guessing is what you want). But obviously if you wanted it louder, go bigger, becuase bigger amp is 'always' better, even if you dont use it all, its alot better than squeezing out too much from a small amp, whitch will blow your speakers.
Now on to the enclosures, you have to ask youself, what do you want? Myself, I don't like overly boomy (loose) bass, so I use sealed enclosures, rather than trying to engineer a perfect bandpass or ported box. But if you want something louder and looser, then a ported or bandpass box is better for you. You can put them all in one box, but figure 1 cubicfoot per sub in a sealed enclosure, 1.25 in a ported and 1.5 (f.75-b.72) in a bandpass. Also keep in mind, that if YOU are making the boxes, a bandpass box is hard to make, and really hard to make good
(which is why I dont use them). The ports on the bandpass and ported boxes should be about 4 inches also.

to put everything in perspective, that I have a home deck rated at 100watts (at 8ohms), and it powers 2 polk audio 12" speakers (thats where I got the numbers from) pretty freaking loud, I don't think I've ever cranked it all the way. This gives you a meter of what ohmage does for you. My speakers have a combined omage of 2ohms, and are rated at 150rms each. So Im getting pretty close to 300watts at 3/4 volume. If you want it louder, the first thing you do is cange how its wired, and make sure your amp can handle the new ohmage (lower is louder)- but not necessarily better. If you need any help on the speaker math - I can splain' it more clearly.

HTH
Buzz1167
Jon N

[k67p67]

How about first "splaining" what the hell "ohmage" is? Those subs are dual 6-ohm drivers. They are designed to allow you to run all three together as a 4-ohm load in a series/parallel configuration. The 12W6 is rated at 300WRMS, not 800. You can get away fairly cheap with a JBL BP1200.1 at $259 from ikesound.com . It will put out 600WRMS into a 4-ohm load. That's 200WRMS per driver. Alternatively, you could go with a PG Tantrum 1200.1 that puts out 1,200WRMS into a 4-ohm load but it's expensive at $600+. A third option is to find a 1-ohm stable mono amp and run the subs in a parallel/parallel configuration to provide a 1-ohm load. I'd use a sealed enclosure for this application.

[60hz163.5db]

mmhhmm Thank you mister wizard i'm not being rude but i understand ohm's law and the thiele-small parameters and what not you were spittin but the boy doesn't he was going to try to put 2 subs in one type of box and one in another this would prolly not sound the greatest. I mean shiet if you are not a bricklayer don't try to build a foundation. secondly dual 3 ohm w6's were on the version one's the 12w6v2 are only dual 4's the w6 v2's hold 400rms. in our showroom we have two in run by a jl 1000/1 mounted in a 1.5 cube per sub dual slot ported box and it sounds amazing. but just remember if you are gonna get big ass subs with tons of power upgrade your interior spkrs put an amp on them plz don't be that guy that rolls down the street and all you can hear is the bass have some tact.

[AujlaPimpn]

thanx guys that really helps...i jus have a couple more questions...you guys have probably seen those nice cars in the mags with thier systems all perfect n stuff...where do they get that done? i wanna get my system done hella nice so all the shit isnt everywhere in my trunk..and where could i get some diagrams for wiring the speakers and the amps? thanx again

[k67p67]

Originally Posted by 60hz163.5db

mmhhmm Thank you mister wizard i'm not being rude but i understand ohm's law and the thiele-small parameters and what not you were spittin but the boy doesn't he was going to try to put 2 subs in one type of box and one in another this would prolly not sound the greatest. I mean shiet if you are not a bricklayer don't try to build a foundation. secondly dual 3 ohm w6's were on the version one's the 12w6v2 are only dual 4's the w6 v2's hold 400rms. in our showroom we have two in run by a jl 1000/1 mounted in a 1.5 cube per sub dual slot ported box and it sounds amazing. but just remember if you are gonna get big ass subs with tons of power upgrade your interior spkrs put an amp on them plz don't be that guy that rolls down the street and all you can hear is the bass have some tact.

I agree about the two different enclosures thing. I don't think the W6s ever had a D-3 model. I could be wrong but I've never seen it. His post never mentioned anything about v2s. He said he had (3) 12W6s. By looking at the type of questions he's asking, I don't think he'll be building any type of 3-driver ported enclosure by himself. If you can afford it and want a clean install, take it to a local shop. Make sure you've checked out their work before you shell out big $$$ for a custom install. A 1000/1 would be an even better choice. 1,000WRMS at 1.5-8 ohms.

[AujlaPimpn]

im thinking about getting something like this...http://www.dealtime.com/xPF-Rockford...e_Power_1001BD
around 1000 watts 1 ch. but i duno whether i should get a 1 channel and run a series to 3 woofers or get a 2 ch and bridge it and set it up that way..help me out guys im pretty close to buying an amp..and ive already decided to get a single box 3 woofers..

[k67p67]

Originally Posted by AujlaPimpn

im thinking about getting something like this...http://www.dealtime.com/xPF-Rockford...e_Power_1001BD
around 1000 watts 1 ch. but i duno whether i should get a 1 channel and run a series to 3 woofers or get a 2 ch and bridge it and set it up that way..help me out guys im pretty close to buying an amp..and ive already decided to get a single box 3 woofers..

That's a nice amp but you can't configure a 2-ohm load with those 3 drivers. Either 4-ohm or 1-ohm. I would look for a class D mono amp if you're going to run low impedance. If you're going to configure a 4-ohm load, it won't matter if you get a mono or 2-channel amp. I think Hifonics rates their class D Brutus amps to 1-ohm. BX 1000D is 1,000WRMS @ 1-ohm.