2000 Windstar Won't Start from Time to Time

[slsl]

I have a 2000 Windstar SE with 120k miles. Sometimes, it didn't want to start. I turned the key and nothings happened. No cranking. I couldn't hear anything. I tried a few more times and then the van started and run very smoothly.

First time this happened was in August. It was OK in September. This happened a few more times in October. It was getting wore the past couple of weeks, almost once every other day. Yesterday, I could not start the van for two or three minutes.

Today is the worst. I could not start it all day. I have been doing web search the whole evening, trying to figure out why. Then a hour ago, I turned the key and the van started again. I have tried a few more times since without problem.

The battery is only 7 months old and still has 12.3v. I checked the PCM diode and it looked perfect.

I don't know what is going on. Luckily, the van is inside my garage now. But I'm afraid of driving it out tomorrow. It may die away from home.

Anybody had a similar problem and found out the cause?

[scubacat]

Try starting in neutral next time or at least gently move the shifter. It sounds like a bad or dying TR sensor (used to be known as "neutral safety switch")

[slsl]

Yes, I did try moving the shifter to neutral and moving the shifter back and forth a few times and did not have success. Is it easy to check and replace the TR sensor myself?

Originally Posted by scubacat

Try starting in neutral next time or at least gently move the shifter. It sounds like a bad or dying TR sensor (used to be known as "neutral safety switch")

[scubacat]

Yes, it's easy - just under the airbox. I'll attach the instructions for you.

You do NOT need that "special tool"; just line it up the same way as the one you remove. Also, set e-brake and put shifter in neutral before beginning as the replacements come in neutral position.

If you want to test your existing one, test resistance on pins #2, #3, #4, #5,and #6. They should all be less than 5 ohms. (If looking at the sensor with the lock tab connector on top, pin #1 is top right, #2 is one to the left of that, and all the way to the end which is pin #6.)

[tempfixit]

Originally Posted by slsl

Yes, I did try moving the shifter to neutral and moving the shifter back and forth a few times and did not have success. Is is it easy to check and replace the TR sensor myself?

Do you any lights pn the dash when you turn the key on at the time it happens??? (CEL< etc.)


Have you checked the battery cables for any corrision of the cable wire itself not just the connector??

[slsl]

Yes, all the usual lights on the dash were on when I turned the key.

The headlights were pretty strong too when I turned them on.

Originally Posted by tempfixit

Do you any lights pn the dash when you turn the key on at the time it happens??? (CEL< etc.)


Have you checked the battery cables for any corrision of the cable wire itself not just the connector??

[slsl]

I located the sensor. It seems very easy to reach if I remove the airflow box.

I ordered the transmission range sensor from Pep Boys (They still call it neutral safety switch) and will pick up it tomorrow morning. Hopefully, by tomorrow afternoon, I will be confident to drive my Windstar again.

Originally Posted by scubacat

Yes, it's easy - just under the airbox. I'll attach the instructions for you.

You do NOT need that "special tool"; just line it up the same way as the one you remove. Also, set e-brake and put shifter in neutral before beginning as the replacements come in neutral position.

If you want to test your existing one, test resistance on pins #2, #3, #4, #5,and #6. They should all be less than 5 ohms. (If looking at the sensor with the lock tab connector on top, pin #1 is top right, #2 is one to the left of that, and all the way to the end which is pin #6.)

[slsl]

I spent two hours to replace the transmission range sensor this afternoon. I can start my van now. Since I was still able to start the van with the old TRS just before the replacement, I can't be 100% sure that the problem is fixed. I will report back.

I also found a useful YouTube clip for this replacement job.

Change your safety neutral switch on a Ford Windstar 2000
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3inAO9gORh0

[12Ounce]

I have had your symptoms several times. I have always come back to the relays near the battery. In particular I find the "fuel pump relay" and the "PCM relay" to be problem makers. I keep new relays and the relay layout drawing (glove box manual) to aid during a relay replacement.

[slsl]

It is a good idea to keep new relays in the van. Where did you get these relays? I did a search. The auto parts stores do not seem to have them in stock. I want to get them tomorrow.

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

I have had your symptoms several times. I have always come back to the relays near the battery. In particular I find the "fuel pump relay" and the "PCM relay" to be problem makers. I keep new relays and the relay layout drawing (glove box manual) to aid during a relay replacement.

[12Ounce]

If you were to buy a complete "set" for the '99, you would buy 4 relays .... that is, there are 4 different styles used.

But most of the relays are only two of the styles. I buy my spare relays from the Ford spare parts counter. Usually about $10 each.

[slsl]

I was able to purchase a PCM relay at an O'Reilly store this morning. It was a $12.49 part made by BWD, Part # R3177 (Ford OEM Part # is FOAB 14B192-AA). This store did not have the fuel pump relay in stock (Import Direct Ignition, Part # 25-0136 = Ford OEM Part # F57B 14B192-AA). Since the fuel pump relay and the rear wiper relay are the same type, I figure I can always swap them in an emergency situation.

I keep the PCM relay in the glove box. I will report back should I need to use it.

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

If you were to buy a complete "set" for the '99, you would buy 4 relays .... that is, there are 4 different styles used.

But most of the relays are only two of the styles. I buy my spare relays from the Ford spare parts counter. Usually about $10 each.

[slsl]

I could not start my 2000 Windstar again this morning. I replace the transmission range sensor on 11/18/12 and was able to start the van until today.

I switched the fuel pump relay and the rear wiper relay, but could not start the van. So I switched them back. In the process, I accidentally drop the rear wiper realy below the relay/fuse box next to the battery and could not get it out. Back luck.

Next, I replaced the PCM relay with a new one and still could not start the van. I waited desperately for a few minutes (trying to get the rear wiper relay out at mean time) and gave one last try. The van started! So, I drove to work without the rear wiper relay installed. I don't know if I will be able to start the van after work.

I also noticed the van was rough on idle the past month. The engine seemed vibrating once every two seconds at idle. I cleaned the idle air control valve and replaced the PCV vacuum tube without seeing much improvement. Is this related to the non-starting problem?

[scubacat]

If the TR sensor didn't fix it (not a waste IMHO -- they do go bad), my only other guess would be a bad wire somewhere. How to find that is another story. The intermittent issues like this are the worst.

When you say it doesn't start, is there a "click" or is it completely dead? (as if you never turned the key at all..) Do lights on the dash do anything?

[slsl]

It was completely dead. I could hear the fuel flowing. No other sound at all. The usual lights on dash were on when I turned the key.

The non-starting happened twice on 11/28/12, once in the morning and once in the late afternoon after work. I just waited for a few minutes. Then the van started. Any way, I removed the battery and got the rear wiper relay out that evening.

I was able to start the van after that day until this morning. The same old story. I kept trying for a few minutes and the van eventually started. Indeed, it was very frustrating to deal with the intermittent issues like this. Something is wrong. Just don't know what it is.

Originally Posted by scubacat

If the TR sensor didn't fix it (not a waste IMHO -- they do go bad), my only other guess would be a bad wire somewhere. How to find that is another story. The intermittent issues like this are the worst.

When you say it doesn't start, is there a "click" or is it completely dead? (as if you never turned the key at all..) Do lights on the dash do anything?