Power sliding door

[mark_gober]

My wife's 2000 Windstar's passenger side sliding door has given up the ghost. I've replaced the entire sliding door module that is located behind the trim in the rear. (that includes the motor and the power slider module that is attached to it) That did not fix the problem. I'm wondering if my problem is in the rear electronics module, but my question is whether or not a junkyard part will work straight out of the gate or will it need to be programmed? I've located a vehicle that is the same year and accessory package as mine, but I know on the main CPU, you can't just swap because your Key code is programmed on it. But what about the rear electronics module?

Btw, when you press either the pillar button or the overhead sliding door button, the door will unlock, but makes absolutely no attempt whatsoever to open or close.

Mark

[olopezm]

Hi Mark,

These PSD's seem to be a curse for us. Mine will unlock and open but won't close.

Are both (front and rear) latches unlocking evenly?

I remember having a PDF with info about these doors but I'm still searching for it in my external HD. I'll post it ASAP.

Oscar.

[olopezm]

I forgot to say that the REM will work fine as long as the other windstar was of the same trim level. No need to program anything. It may even work a REM from a higher trim level but why risk it?

Oscar.

[mark_gober]

Originally Posted by olopezm

Hi Mark,

These PSD's seem to be a curse for us. Mine will unlock and open but won't close.

Are both (front and rear) latches unlocking evenly?

I remember having a PDF with info about these doors but I'm still searching for it in my external HD. I'll post it ASAP.

Oscar.

Oscar,

I'm not sure what your asking. If I press the PSD button, the door unlocks and the latch releases. (the door is no longer flush with the side of the car) But it makes absolutely NO attempt to slide. I've replaced the entire PSD module and got the exact same symptoms.

Mark

[12Ounce]

Make sure that the switch ... AT THE REAR OF THE DOOR OPENING, the door "ajar" switch, is still in place and functioning.

[olopezm]

The PSD has two latches, one at the front of the door and one at the rear. I understand the door "pops" at both sides right?. Can you see the linkage on the door tracks having some tension on it? Like the motor is at least trying?

The file I mentioned before is too big to upload it here but if you send me a PM or direct email with your address I'll be happy to share it.

Oscar.

[mark_gober]

Originally Posted by olopezm

The PSD has two latches, one at the front of the door and one at the rear. I understand the door "pops" at both sides right?. Can you see the linkage on the door tracks having some tension on it? Like the motor is at least trying?

The file I mentioned before is too big to upload it here but if you send me a PM or direct email with your address I'll be happy to share it.

Oscar.

Oscar...I PM'ed you. Thanks again.

Mark

[olopezm]

Hi Mark,

I wonder if you figured out what's wrong with it.

Today I spent some time on my Windstar to try and fix the PSD (it would open but wouldn't close; the motor kept opening the door). After carefully reading the opening sequence in page 31 of the "PowerSlidingDoor" pdf, I found out there is a switch attached to the rear latch (not the latch itself as I said before) which let's the PSDM know the door has been unlatched. I decided to take a look at it.

To gain access to it you need to remove the door trim panel and remove the latch from the door, I didn't see what was the Torx size but I think was T20. Once you remove the latch from the door you'll see the latch switch, you'll need another torx bit to remove it (T10 or 15 I think, sorry that I didn't write it down).

I soaked a plastic brush with some WD40 and started brushing the switch assembly, also moved the rotating lever several times; when I used my DMM to test it, it was hard to get it to beep while testing continuity and while testing for resistance it wouldn't get under 150 ohms. After cleaning and moving the lever several times it started reading less than 50 ohms and the continuity test started beeping, telling the contact was good of course!.

I reassembled everything and tested the door but wouldn't work for several times =(... until I moved the PSD switch on the head console to the ON position (darn switch! LOL).

I manually closed the door, moved the switch to the on position, opened the door with either button (head console, B-pillar or RKE) and door moved smoothly; pressed any button again and the door closed smoothly, as it should!.

After several times the door keeps working, so I say you should to take a look at such LATCH SWITCH. Since you'll be removing the latch, it's a good idea to clean it too.

I hope it helps,

Oscar.