The bumper bracket ended up being a simple sectioning of the outboard arm.
The turn signal mounting holes got the inner edges sliced away to provide a squared off edge to weld new metal too. Two plates were fabricated and trimmed to fit before being welded in place. Some filler and grinding later and a few coats of primer and Bob's yer Uncle.
My last name isn't Trepanier or Foose so the bumpers will either be body color or chrome wrapped. I cannot afford the chrome work.
Next up was the 67 Charger front end. It's all of a piece with the fender mods and bumper mods so I dove right in. I sold the Coronet items for a great price and bought a used set up from a 67 Charger. The parts are interchangeable with a few pieces being different like the lower grill support bar is model specific, as is the surrounding trim, although both bolt right up to either car. The sweeping back of the fender noses caused the Charger "C" trim on each end to be out of location. I solved this by slicing away a small portion at the rear inside edge so they too could be swept back to match while still being reasonably aligned with the trim section across the front.
The 67 Charger revolving headlights are a handful to get assembled correctly when you don't have another assembled example sitting in front of you. lol. Lots of trial and error.
The way they are manufactured doesn't lend itself to customization. For instance, the center revolving axis/axle is maintained by the clunky 50+ year old motors being bolted to a "donut" through which an axle finger/post protrudes from the each bucket. The motor axle/shaft pins onto this post. I had no desire to use those clunky old motors which caused me to have to design a way to keep the buckets revolving around a centered axis somehow. I burned a lot of brain cells on this mod.
Problems seemed to cascade from each solution. "This will cause that", syndrome. Which, truth be told, is the fun part for me. Figuring it all out, designing from scratch.
I had first to select a new set of bucket drive motors. I searched for a good week or so before finding a set that had three post mounting arrangements that would withstand the initial drag of the heavy buckets rotation. That would fit in between the mounting place and the radiator/transmission cooler and had the umpf to turn the heavy buckets.
There's very little room in there.
Then once that was worked out I had to design and fabricate the linkages to connect them to the buckets while also supporting and maintaining the center axis.
I started with the outer ends, the buckets themselves. Once I had finagled around the many parts that comprise the framing and spacing of the buckets between the grill ends and the turn signal housings on either end I moved on to axis rotation. How to keep that center post that's bolted to the exact center of the bucket end face centered in the "donut" hole? I eventually settled on using hard nylon white bushings. They were hard enough to stand up to the work load, easy enough to resize to fit and drill out the centers to fit the existing parts. I sanded down a set to hammer into the donut center holes so they wouldn't spin and then drilled out the centers to fit the bucket post through them. next came the motor mounting location and distance from the post end.
They would need to be shaft centered, angled body to miss the grill mounting lower bar AND the trans cooler face behind them. Also they needed to be where there was a flat place to bolt up the mounting plate I would need to fabricate both above and below AND be far enough away to leave room for a connecting linkage that I would also have to fabricate. All out of thin air. lol.
After fooling around with several designs that wouldn't work well I found that I didn't have the skills to fabricate a one piece linkage. The main issue was that the electric drive motors have a small "D" shaft that needs to attach to a big clunky 3/8" 1967 era post with a set pin hole through it. Two piece it would be.
I used a couple of hunks of steel pipe that would slid within each other. I made them as short as possible while still being long enough to slid within each other and bolt down the set screws. On one end the ID needed to be 1/4" and the other 3/8". The 1/4" end had to have a set screw hole through with threads and the other end a smooth hole for a latch pin to slid through. The middle had to have holes through both walls to connect the two pieces together. All of this occurs within about 3 1/2"......lol. Keep in mind I'm doing all of this by hand with no computers or plasma cutters...lol. The number of times that I had that front assembly on and off the car blurred after awhile..
The assembly itself also needed to be restored. The buckets disassembled and cleaned, sanded down and repainted, the chrome refurbished the lights and light mounts inside the buckets taken apart and cleaned and oiled. The grill sanded down and repainted the chrome shined up.