1994 Astro Van. Cranks but Wont Start Condition. No humming noise coming from the Fuel Pump. The Blue 15 Amp Fuse for the Fuel Pump Circuit Labeled “ECM B” and Located in the Fuse Block under the dash by the brake pedal was fine. I Later Noticed the following items did not have power: Fuel Pump, Head Lights, Interior Lights, Radio, Tail Lights Horn, Power Windows. The following items still had power: Front HVAC Blower Motor, Brake Lights, Hazard Lights, Wipers, Dash Light, Rear Air-Con HVAC Blower, Rear Heat Blower.
What is the Root Cause of the Problem? There is a Flat 4-Pin/Terminal Electrical Plug located on the Firewall behind the Battery. The 2nd Pin/Terminal from the Driver’s Side is Undersized and it Runs Hot and the Heat Causes the Plastic Electrical Plug to Swell and Ultimately Disrupts and Disconnects the Electrical Connection so the Fuel Pump & Head Lights and other items do not have any power to them even though the Flat 4-Pin/Terminal Electrical Plug is still Plugged-in. I also noticed the Pin/Terminal Plug closest to the Driver’s Side was starting to swell from running hot. Rather than try to find another Poorly Designed Flat 4-Pin/Terminal Electrical Plug, I decided to completely bypass the Poorly Designed Flat 4-Pin/Terminal Electrical Plug and terminate the (4) wires from the Flat 4-Pin/Terminal Electrical Plug directly onto the stud located just above the Flat 4-Pin/Terminal Electrical Plug.
Belt & Suspender Fix: The 4-Wires leaving the Flat 4-Pin/Terminal Electrical Plug are “Fusible Links”. I replaced all 4-Fusible Links with new ones. The (2) fusible links closest to driver’s side are 14 Gauge (2.0 SQ. MM) Fusible Links. The (2) fusible links closest to passenger side are 16 Gauge (1.0 SQ. MM) Fusible Links. I also added In-Line ATC Splash-Proof In-Line Fuse Holders along with 18” of new wire on each end of the In-Line Fuse Holder. This extra 18” of wire on each end on the In-Line Fuse Holder will allow me to easily access the (4) New In-line Fuse Holders when the Battery is back in place in the event that a fuse blows. One End of the New Fusible Links was attached to the new 18” wire and on the other end of the fusible link I installed Crimp on Ring Terminals. I then mounted the (4) Ring Terminals onto the Stud that is located under the Red Cap that is approximately 1” in diameter and located just above the Flat 4-Pin/Terminal Electrical Plug. I cut ¼” wide slots in the sides of the black plastic insulator that surrounded the Stud. I cut these slots at the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions. These slots made room for the crimped on portion of the ring connectors so that the (4) wires can be bolted onto the stud. I also cut slots in the Red Cover that went over the Stud at the 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock positions. I over filled the area around the stud with silicone caulk and then re-installed the Red Cover.
I installed a 25-amp fuse in the In-Line Fuse Holder circuit that used to be closest to the Passenger Side. I believe that this circuit provides power to the Anti-Lock Brake Module. I installed (3) 30 amp fuses in the other (3) In-line fuse holders. I cut the ends of the (4) old fusible links coming out of the Flat 4-Pin/Terminal Electrical Plug at 3”, 3.75”, 4.5”, and 5.25” lengths and then I taped them all together and put a lot of wraps of tape on them and then I plugged the old Flat 4-Pin/Terminal Electrical Plug back in. I believe that the pin/terminal closest to the driver’s side provides power to the Rear-Air-Con Blower Motor. I believe that the pin/terminal that is 2nd from the passenger side is for the PWR ACC and Stop-Hazard devices.