Why do you keep starting new threads for the same issue?
You told us he was going to fabricate one, in your other thread.
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Originally Posted by jamesmetairie
the mechanic plans to fabricate it.
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Couldn't be easier, and would cost less than shipping one to you.
Instructions are in the link I already provided for you in your other thread, but here is is again.
http://www.w-body.com/topic/32492-ha...topping-power/
Quote:
I made a "special tool" to twist the booster off the firewall. I used 5" of channel iron; angle iron or even suitably thick bar stock would work as well. Drill three holes--two the same distance apart as the studs on the booster, and one right in the middle that is tapped for whatever thread size you need to screw in a bolt with a ~3/4 inch hex head. I used a metric bolt 'cause it was handy. Then I cut off the excess threads on the back side, and welded the bolt into place.
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Later in that same thread, I said
Quote:
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Remove vacuum hose from booster check valve. Install "special tool" to booster studs, twist booster off the firewall. I could feel the booster lock tab catch--but I did NOT have to pry on it--I twisted just a bit harder, and the booster lock tab popped free without any trouble.
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Tell the guy you have working on this that moving the BOOSTER LOCK will make it easier to unscrew the booster. The lock-tab seats against the flange on the left side of this photo (right side of the car). The lock-tab is kinda hard to get at.
The lock-tab itself can be seen on the boosters in this photo--although it's easiest to see on the left booster. In the photo, it's the blade that sticks downward from the rivet area. On the car, the tab would mate with the flange, so it points toward the right side of the car:
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesmetairie
My mobile mechanic is very experienced and a former chevy dealer tech
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This guy was a dealership mechanic and doesn't know this?