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Originally Posted by tomj76
Did you check pressure levels in the transmission levels before & after pump/valve body replacement? Did you see a change? Even if you didn't measure pressure before, have you checked is since and is it in spec? Is the clutch engaging at all (e.g. do you see engine RPM's drop when the clutch tries to engage?)
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So far my diagnostics/history looks like this:
1.) At 160 K had to swap the engine for a 2003 30 K mile (Carfax verified) used engine (leaking lower intake gasket led to hydrolock). During the swap I r&r'ed the input shaft converter seal somewhat inexpertly, it was hard to remove and at one or two points may have pried against the bushing or whatever that is beneath the seal (see below). Did not replace the converter and without a fresh sealing surface the seal weeps a bit but no active leak. Did change out 10 quarts tranny fluid for some full synthetic Valvoline Mercon V I had squirreled away. Trans operated fine.
2.) November at 182 K or so got the flashing OD light, R&Red the range selector and light went away, but then again it was a cold winter.
3). March/April flashing OD light comes back, took to trans place, scanned for codes before and during drive, P0741, shop owner said all engine conditions were right to call for lock up, ECM calling for lock up and not getting it.
I can feel/sense when the converter locks in as rpms drop about 300 or so.
4.) Decided to install reman valve body per above, included new Ford pressure control solenoid and known good TCC and other solenoids,rebuilt oil pump, plus sonnax oil pump shaft and new Ford seals. Dropped pan for first time since engine swap, magnet pretty clean no metal shavings seen, changed fluid for fresh semi synthetic Ford Mercon V. I had one hard code that was TCC related (picked up on standard OBD2 reader, can't recall if it was sensor or solenoid related)), cleared and did not come back. Have NOT checked pressures, doesn't look like Autozone has one in their loaner tools. and I am not sure where the tap is on an AX4S.
5.) Converter will lock in 3rd at 37-40 mph. Will not hold lock on highway in 4th (blinking light) Drove the backroads to work for a couple weeks this way with no light.
6.) Added Lubeguard red, "drove in" for about 30 miles so far on back roads in third. Still will not hold lock in fourth on highway, iffy at 45 on secondary roads in fourth. The Lubegard folks said in can take up to 150 miles to take full affect.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomj76
There are a few causes associated with seals internal to the unit:
9. Turbine Shaft Seals Damaged or Missing (not sure all these can be accessed w/o removing the transmission) |
One of these turbine seals is accessible on the larger of the two splined shafts that extends into the converter (w/converter removed). I did not change during engine r&r. My impression is to get to the other one or two on this turbine shaft the valve body, chain cover, sprockets/chain all need to come out. There are springs below the chain cover that need to be replaced just right for this reason, can't be done with trans in the car .
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomj76
14. Damaged or Worn Stator Support
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think this is the "largest diameter+shortest" of the shafts extending into the converter. I do not recall any damage and did not damage it during input shaft seal r&r
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomj76
15. Worn Torque Converter Hub Bushing
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not sure what this is, possibly below the input shaft seal. Or is it inside the converter? See comments above.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomj76
16. Torque Converter Clutch Worn or Damaged
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Beginning to consider converter R&R because I need the van to haul around a bunch of body parts for a car I want to restore this summer,
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomj76
Also the TCC PCM solenoid signal can be monitored, to verify the PCM is sending the right electrical signal to the transmission. It should "pulse" during the application of the clutch, then go steady 12(?) volts to lock the clutch.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomj76
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Can I do this with hat pins and a DVOM, would think a Snap On scanner would be required. Or maybe the Equus 3160 ?
Not sure how to proceed, if the van didn't have some rust issues I would consider replacing the trans as I've found a couple options less than 1 K. Engine only has 57 K on it. New Ford back axle. Fresh brakes/rotors/caliper brackets. Just rebuilt the alternator w/new regulator was supplying far to high a voltage).
Tom, I appreciate any advice you or others might provide.