View Single Post
  #5  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:07 PM
thephantom1492 thephantom1492 is offline
AF Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 417
Thanks: 0
Thanked 29 Times in 29 Posts
Re: Bi-polar grand am. New/different symptoms everyday

Quote:
Originally Posted by Caseyb1983 View Post
Last week sitting at a light it just turns off but starts right back up. [...] except it felt like she was trying to stall a little.
Could be: Power issue, crankshaft sensor, BCM/PCM,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Caseyb1983 View Post
The next day the mechanic comes to drive it and after looking it over and saying nothing is wrong it finally died on him. [....] it's getting spark.
Power issue, BCM/PCM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Caseyb1983 View Post
So after reading a bit on here I think it's security related so I do the relearn. It started up but rough idle.
Security completly disable the fuel injectors so do not cause rought idle.
Power issue, BCM/PCM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Caseyb1983 View Post
Next day she wouldn't start for anything. It turns over but never turns on.
THAT could be security related.
I suspect Power issue or bcm/pcm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Caseyb1983 View Post
Now the key turns perfectly but now all I get when I turn it over with either the old or new key is a click. Lights and radio work fine.
Power issue or starter or shift interlock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Caseyb1983 View Post
Also today when I did the relearn and tried to turn it over the trunk popped open by itself.
Actually, I got that issue when the ignition switch failed.
Power issue or BCM.

My first step would be to check for proper power, a voltmeter can tell alot, just back probe the fuses, look for abnormal voltage. This is how I identified my bad switch issue. Black probe to any ground (bare metal on the car, like a bolt) and probe the fuses... if you see a big difference between the fuse voltage and the battery voltage (battery should be around 12.5V, at <=11V at the fuse I would be very concerned) then it's sign that there is a bad contact, which would be a relay or a switch. The ignition switch is what switch almost all the current in the car. It have probably 2 ignitions wire and 1 accessory wire, for a total of 3 circuits.

Those 3 circuits are "separated", which explain why you might see some stuff working, and some other do not work.

A bad contact often cause intermittant issues.

My next guess would be oxidation at the BCM and PCM.
The PCM is located under the dash, driver side, on the car side. You can't miss the module.

The bcm is behind the glove box. Still lots of wires.

If you see green or white powder, that's oxidation. Beware that if you want to disconnect the connectors, it's hightly advised to remove the battery negative before doing it. Those computers are pricey, you don't want to kill one due to the power that flow in the wrong way.
Reply With Quote