Quote:
Originally Posted by bdahl385
Couple questions, did you not remove the cowl to have top access to the rear plugs? That is only a 10 minute job and I have done that several times already and its very easy. I have heard of others getting to the rear 3 plugs from underneath but recall that some found top access easier once the cowl was removed.
You did not mention replacing the wires. At 134k miles and 10 year old, I would definitely have changed them if you did not. I have bought the double platinum OEM plugs, new Motorcraft wire set and an OEM Ford ignition module. I will replace all the electrical together as total cost was only about $120 and is well spent funds for getting all new ignition components.
I will use the PB blaster also as it was a concern to remove these 12 yo plugs, thanks for that tip. I have hi temp anti seize and will coat the threads on the new ones also. I have seen others post that it is not recommended but I don't know why as long as you use a minimal amount only.
|
No, I didn't remove the cowl because I didn't know how or how much work it would have been. Sounds like removing the cowl would have been helpful for accessing the coil and related spark plug wires (I also changed the coil, see other post).
I accessed the rear three plugs from the bottom of the vehicle. As I said, I had the luxury of working with the car up on a lift. Made accessing the bottom much easier!
Another tip, if working from the bottom, you will want the vehicle to be fairly cool when you do this project. You're working with your face by the exhaust system.
I was planning to replace the wires, then got tight on time so just replaced the plugs and coil. I will probably go ahead and replace the wires as well. I kind of hate to, though, because the original wires still look great. I ran the car at night and they were not arcing. Also, the original wires have the cylinder numbers written down the side on them, how cool is that???
Do I need to replace the ignition module? What is that? Mine is probably still original (2002 3.8L).
I didn't know using the anti-seize was not recommended. I didn't use a high-temp version, just the normal stuff. The guys that staff the shop said it would be a good idea to use it (a small amount), and I knew I didn't want the plugs to get locked in place. I used a small amount on each, wiped it well into the threads to coat them and also to remove any excess - being careful not to get any of it on the business end of the spark plug.
I don't claim to be an expert mechanic, so don't go by what I'm sharing here if the experts are giving different advice. I just slowly worked my way through this project and was very pleased to have it done. The coil badly needed to be replaced and the car was barely running when I limped it into the shop. Replaced plugs and coil, and now it runs great again!
