Finally getting to the Injector Plug replacement
After almost 3 months I finally got around to fixing the CHEWED engine wires. The job probably could be done in 1 to 1-1/2 hours by a Pro, but DIY'ers can futz around and dick with it all afternoon.
Lol
It was a fine learning experience, and I'm no longer afraid or intimidated by engine harnesses!!
Crunch!!
This is where I started into the harness.. just downstream from the #3 injector wire where the tubing was crushed due to a cable clamp on vacuum switch bracket.
Edit: it seems now that the sheathing tube was crushed intentionally.. because the cable clamp was too small?
Opening wire bundle
Cutting and peeling the tape with an X-Acto (this can be tedious) the tubing was pulled away from the wire bundle to the left.
Someone apparently yanked it pretty bad here?
Downstream tubing tucked out of the way. About to start upstream.
Opening wire bundle upstream
With upstream tubing opened, the secondary bundles are seen taped-up inside. Interesting!! However this step was skipped when re-assembling. I may rework the general area when doing another ENGINE HARNESS service / update later on (inspecting and replacing old, dried out factory tape) adding these wraps.
Digging deeper upstream, each of the two-wire pairs is taped together, and "harness stops" are wrapped where pairs break out of the bundle.
Foam blocks were used to "stand off" the harness for easier access. This is the HDPE foam (milk jug material?) that was shoved into the front Park Lamps to stop rattling.
Splicing injector wires
Crimps were staggered per the instructions and service manual. A full-scale planning sketch was made to help position the crimps.
However I didn't note where each original tape-wrap was placed. The dozens of photos would provide that.
Below the TWO crimps are installed just like planned!!
Heat shrink tubing used on the exposed Injector Plug leads instead of tape wrap. Black Sharpie pen on one line is the `stripedī wire.
Using a digital heat gun, these barrel splices were NOT heat shrinkable. I applied LOTS of heat, and the wires started to melt!!
This is a mystery.
Wire Prep
The
ORANGE vacuum switch wire where the insulation was chewed was CUT in two and a barrel crimp installed, with heat shrink tubing over that. Both injector and vacuum switch wire pairs were wrapped-up with 8 mil, 3/4" 3M vinyl / electrical tape.
Harness Closed
NEW vinyl tape applied to the cable sheath. This had to be partially removed and done over so the branches would be heading off in the right direction. Really a refreshed look on the engine. There is STILL a
problem area with very DRY electrical tape (see RED arrows on right.) Plus a sensor wire-pair that goes DOWN the back end of the head is in bad shape. Hell.. now I'll be repairing and re-wrapping harnesses all over the vehicle if the NEW tape holds up after 6 months!
Plus it was easy and fun!!
Job Complete
The harness was then closed-up. Only difference (besides inner wraps) is the vacuum switch pair is now FWD of, and parallel to the main harness due to the stiffness of the splice and heat shrink, i.e. it could not be formed into a curved wire.
Electrical tape
The
factory tape was 1.2" wide and 3-4 mils thick however, 3M Heavy Duty electrical tape (0.75" and 1.5" wide) x 8.5 mils thick was ordered from McMaster Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com with higher temperature rating. I haven't used the WIDE tape yet, but its' good stuff!!
Deoxit
Here's the stuff I hit every connector with before re-mating. Deoxit D5 is a solution of 5% deox juice and 95% solvent that evaporates quickly. It's not just for electronics and volume controls.. even use it on those pesky intermittent flashlights!!
Problem area
Now I'm seeing a LOT of old and dried-out harness tape, and some broken or damaged sheathing. The plan is to re-work the harness from the back of the engine to the front-right side, replacing tape and sheathing as needed. Plus it will LOOK MARVELOUS!!
Here's a sensor on the forward driver-side corner of the block under the thermostat area. It's subjected to a LOT of heat from the crossover pipe and is cracked, broken and dried out.
Results
Well it started right up and
ran as good as ever on a short test drive, holding 2nd gear and revving 3000 RPM. Another successful DIY repair and restoration in the books!!
This summer 2012 project is a WRAP!!
-Ed