Quote:
Originally Posted by wiswind
MOST Windstars were built using the 3.8L engine......the 3.0L being in the minority (like 6%).
Removing the vaccum line from the top of the EGR valve is a very good test to eliminate the EGR system from the list of possible failures.
You unplug it from the EGR valve and plug it (the vaccum hose).
This will disable the EGR system.
I have asked folks to post back, but they still often do not.
The Camshaft Sensor Syncro,.....if it has not been messed with (removed) or failed solid (not common) then is "should" still be fine.
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I am just amazed tho, given how many people have this problem, yet no one knows a fix?
Is the car making a rod noise, in your opinion, or not? You'd know what that sounds like, right?
As for not posting-the solution would still be known to someone on here, which is why I'm mystified no one has posted it at all.
As for the sensor-we have one of the many windstars where lights come on and off, for no reason, even while driving. Ford windstars are known for bad sensors and very bad electronics. I have also seen enough older posts here to know, an piece of electronics can pass every single test known to mechanics, and still be very bad.
My EGR intake measurement ports were so badly fouled, I'm sure they did not work correctly. The #1 cylinder was so hot a the plenum, I hurt my hand touching it. The black stuff in the port itself looked like the sugar we burned in the third grade in elementary school. That IMHO would be consistent with my landlord having poured anti-freeze into the engine, too.
But, absent anyone knowing, and a bad rod or bearing would be well known it would seem to me, I keep trying other things. My relative has offered to buy a different car, but we can get another engine at half that price, and the rest of the car is fine, has like 147k miles, so that would truly be a waste other than to drop a different engine in instead.
From yahoo answers to here, the things listed for the problem we have with misfiring are usually due to coil pack, crank and camshaft sensors. So I did that. If I take off a valve cover, that means 24 hours while the rtv sets, IIRC from 2001, to repair it.
My friend is usually honest, but years back, when every problem we had started, I testified at an NNSA about LANL killing my Dad by exposing him to plutonium gas, and not telling him, and then getting his oncologist, a real whore of a man, to cover for it. I found out he'd gotten a 26 rem dose from his radiologist, who even wrote out the formula they use to find the dose. As a result, he and evryone lse have called me a "traitor", and I have been blamed for lanl losing contracts and everything else. I detailed online what was being said and done to my family and me as a result, and this really stirred things up.
So, now, since I am getting different stories from the same person, I do not know what to think at all. It was working fine ,then we came back from town, working out, and the car started making the popping sound, and lost power. But, even a mechanic from mexico like olopezm, does not know. I find that really funky. There are now 5 videos on youtube of Fords with the same problem but no listed answers.
I am still not sure about the vacuum leak thing, and given the spurious and strange info I have been getting, do not know what to do.
Does anyone? In my area ,there are plenty of car enthusiasts, mostly hispanic ,who work on cars to make them supercharged ,and my son had one of those guys as a friend-his Dad does it in Nambe. But, I do not know his addy, and the area just a few years ago had people standing by the road with baseball bats, attacking any white person coming in. The street signs get removed too, so if you are not from there, good luck finding an addy. Outside of that, I neither know where to go, or even how.
Everything electric fails on a Ford. I can't find a rod bearing break that sounds like mine on youtube.
So, I am stuck.
