Hello Azhar,
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Originally Posted by azharj
Dear Olopezm! extremely nice feelings on your comments. You have ammazing memory. Actually I fixed the AC vent issue about six months back. The pictures posted by you were extremely helpful.
I made some modification also. You were right that basic cause was vacuum loss. The only problem was to detect and locate the leak. I was busy so I could not share. But in some post I will share with my all friends. I have some drawings to explain but I will post them this site.
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I look forward to read your solution. I'm pretty sure it will help other people in the forum my friend!.
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Originally Posted by azharj
My Windstar is 3.8l Year 2000. This is my first experience of American car though very strong, safe and comfortable, yet highly unreliable and undependable. Rubber seals gaskets electrical and plastic parts neither reliable nor durable. Previously I had Toyota or Charade; both Japanese.
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I agree with you, these windstar are great vehicles but kind of unreliable when it comes to transmission or upper engine components. My other cars are american too and I must says both have been very reliable, the Lincoln (also a Ford) has had minor problems which have been quite easy to fix and my Pontiac has had some easy and cheap fixes and only one expensive which was caused because of a problem (from the factory) with bad intake gaskets. Yet, I wouldn't sell any of both; the windstar maybe... Lately, I've been falling back in love with it
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Originally Posted by azharj
I had fuel injector cleaned about 6 month back and EGR ports were cleaned and the workshop man applied O2 sensor safe silicon between the plastic and aluminum manifolds according to him bolts and seals were OK.
I mentioned that it my car stalls after 200 Miles. Only once the 0171,0174 code came when my car stopped. The workman told me to clean injectors codes disappeared but engine stalling remained there.
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It would be good to know where did your mechanic exactly used the sealant. This engine has 14 points to seal between the plastic and aluminum parts (8 isolator bolts and 6 intake port seals). The isolator bolts can be seen in picture #13 and the port seals location in picture #14 of the second link I posted before. The rubber around the isolator bolts starts to degrade because of the oil being sucked into the plastic intake; when this happens a vacuum leak appears and the p0171/174 codes are (sometimes) triggered; it depends on how bad the leak is, as I said before the codes never appeared on mine and I only noticed the leak after reading the STFT and LTFT readings with a live data capable scanner.
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Originally Posted by azharj
During this weekend I will replace fuel pump assembly again to see if engine stalling is still there or not.
Again thank you for the concern
Azhar Jawaid
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BEFORE you replace the fuel pump I would ask the mechanic to take a look at the LTFT and STFT readings with a capable scanner.
If the readings are higher than +10 that would surely indicate a vacuum leak, a dead injector or a weak fuel pump and the computer is trying to compensate by adding more fuel to the mixture.
Also make sure to use a Fuel Gauge Pressure Tester to rule out a bad fuel pump, nobody wants to end up replacing a properly working component, specially a fuel pump knowing how tedious is to replace one.
Fuel pressure spec:
key on engine off (KOEO): 35-45psi
key on engine running (KOER) at idle: 28-35 psi
engine off after 5 minutes: 30-40psi
If the readings are lower than -10 it indicates you have an excess of fuel entering the cylinders and the computer is taking fuel from the mixture. That could indicate a leaking injector, a bad Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR).
I hope this helps.
Oscar.