Hi, first let me explain what happened when the car stopped completely.
I drove it out the other day and the battery light was on (nothing new it's always on). But also the ABS light was on. So I went and put some gas in it, and now both those lights and the E-Brake light was on (even though it was not up).
Do you know what the alternate name for those warning lights are called? They are called "idiot" lights......Do you know what the the red battery light means when it is on while the car is running? It means your car in not charging, and if you continue to drive the vehicle like this you will kill your battery(discharges it).....
I stopped at the movie store and hung out for a bit (family owned). When I went to get in my car, the car wouldn't start but it did produce several clicking sounds.
Because your battery was discharged.....
So I jumped it and drove it back towards home. As I was driving home, the Battery Light, ABS light, and Air Bag light were all on. Right before I pulled into the driveway, the car produced a few chimes (as if I had left my headlights on with no key in the ignition).
Because your battery was discharged.....
I parked the car, turned it off, then tried to turn it back on and absolutely nothing. No clicks, but there was power, as all of the dashboard lights were on.
Because your battery was discharged....
My battery was bought in April 2011. My alternator is old though. I'm not very good with cars, so my grandpa had been working on it. We took the alternator off and went to a local car repair shop. The guy told my grandpa it may be the 'computer'? He said to hook a fully charged battery up to the car and see if it'll start.
He wants you to try and see if the car will start and run with a fully charged battery......but it starts when it is jumped, so we know the problem is a charging problem(if your battery is ok)....however, even though your battery is fairly new, running the vehicle with the battery light on, could have weakened the battery....should have your battery charged, and then checked out.......
I guess that would rule out the battery if it worked or not, but what's this deal about the computer? ECU or something?
I don't have a schematic for this system, but the output of the alternator is controlled by the voltage regulator( some are external, some are built into the alternator, and in some cases, the car's computer controls the alternator output).....
Do you have a voltmeter? Charge the battery, and start her up...fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts(engine not running).......with the vehicle running, the battery should be reading greater than 13.0 volts, if the alternator is charging......many alternators have been replaced erroneously, due to a blown fuseable link.....inputs to the alternator have to be checked before condemning the alternator..