to sum up;
'97 Villager started blowing Fuel Pump power fuse (the 15A in fuse box near battery).
Traced all pump wires and components, found no short circuits to ground on power side wires, found correct connectivity on ground side of pump, resistance across pump was correct, 'bang head here' label correct, ie everything checked OK.
HOWEVER, measuring at the rear connector (connector behind tank, wire half going ~into tank...) and checking resistance between pump power / ground wires AND either fuel level sender (or 'gas gauge') wires, I was able to find connection to the fuel level sender THROUGH the power wires. In other words, between one power>gauge wire pairing, you could again measure just the pump resistance, while with the other power>gauge wire pairing, you could measure the resistance for the existing fuel level (+ a couple ohms from the pump). In short (hehe) the pump got connected to the float level thingy and started puking fuses. Whats more, the pump did not actually GROUND (to frame) through the gauge while metering with car off (I didnt or wouldnt try under other conditions), so the root issue is a conditional short through the gauge circuit ( 'conditional' or temporary, as it probably only shows up during START or possibly after engine already running). Sort of amazed the Eng Control Module isn't smoking A Big One due to the fuel pump sending power through it.
Measured another (earlier) Villager and found, as expected, the pump should NOT be connected to the sender.
To my best info, the dash gas gauge read correct up to the moment of boof. Don't really know ...
I have seen more than a few posts around web laying out 'fuel pump fuse blowing, replaced pump, fuse still blowing'.
I think you could verify this condition without getting under the car simply by installing a good fuse, tripping the impact switch (breaks normal / expected ground for pump) and trying a START. If fuse still blows, you might have the same problem.
I cut the two small wires on the rear connector ( those going to/from the fuel gauge sender, which isolates the gauge from the rest of the vehicle) and vehicle runs fine, only thing is gas gauge of course inaccurate, reading full.
This tidbit could save your bacon miles from home, or even get your big big brain possibly laid for being a Hero (ymmv), as your secret info source will be safe with me.
I don't know exactly where the short between pump and sender circuit is, going to drive the tank dry & then drop the tank to inspect pump & sender, but should be easy to isolate after the pump & sender removed from car.
One final note, on earlier Villagers, the fuel pump power circuit ALSO powered the Idle Air Control, so a shorted / failed IAC could also blow the fuel fuse, but net symptoms would probably be a little different. If you have this situation, disconnecting the IAC should keep a new fuse from blowing although I dont know how well the thing would run. Maybe balls out to the nearest comfort zone ...
Later year Villager / Quest removed the IAC from that pump circuit.
Luck to all you Villager townspeople. Bye ! GTGT