Other than the precautions I've mentioned above re the position of the bushing. The front bushing bolt is in an adjustable slot. and requires a semi large torx, maybe a T35 or T40, bit on the bolt head and a box end 17,18 or 19mm on the nut above. Use a marker or something to mark the top and bottom perimeter of this bolt nut combo in relation to the frame member so that you can place it exactly where it was positioned, so as not to mess up the alignment. There is a fair bit of play on that front bolt.
When I have done them it was just the bushing and did not remove arm completely cause i didn't want to mess with the ball joint and protecting the boot etc.
As I mentioned above, I believe the horizontal bushing bolt was removed to allow for some rotation of the arm. The sway bar link bolts tend to seize up around here and need a bit of heat to keep them from snapping but cannot remember if it was needed to rotate the arm out into position.
Either way, to get more room if needed, only the upper nut of the link is removed to allow for disconnection of the sway bar. Do both sway links nuts at the same time and the sway bar will lift up out of the way nicely. The plastic spacers on the link bolt become part of the bolt, around here, and will be damaged if you try to seperate them without due care.
After removing the old bushing I clean out surface rust in the bushing hole and the area under where the new bushing flange will sit and wet it with a thin smear of grease. Then pulled the new part it in with my homemade press assembly. If'n you can't make a press, I remember they went in fairly easy and I suppose one could use a couple of large vise grips or clamps on the outer ring and tapping the perimeter with a hammer of sorts would do the trick.to pull it in.
Added:
After thinking a bit more i believe after removing the two bolts I pulled the arm, and knuckle strut assembly away and I stuck the flat side of a 2x4 between the frame and arm to hold it out. so I could play with it and not fight the system.