Sorry for the delay in get back on this, things kept cropping up.
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Originally Posted by ibbobud
A stuck intake valve would almost cause a miss unless it was stuck open.
What was your fuel pressure readings with engine running and idling?
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I can't remember now.
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Have you ran test on the fuel pressure regulator to see if the pressure changes when you disconnect the vaccuum?
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I hadn't, no. I was unaware of such a test
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If the regulator is not kicking up the pressure when accelerating it could cause it to lean out. Could have a fuel volume issue too. Its pumping anough to keep pressure at idle but not when you accelerate causing a lean condition.
Does it do it when its cold or hot or both? once its warm it relies on sensor data to control fuel. If you have a bad map or o2 sensor it will cause that issue too.
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When it's cold, it'd take 4-5 times to get it to start. When it's Hot (been run in the last 10 mins) it starts straight away. Whenn 'warm' (between 20mins and an hour or two) it won't start at all. The plenum is red hot, and even the coolant overflow tank is quite warm.
So, new developments. Wednesday night, my wife had problems coming home. When she got home, I jumped in and took it for a spin around the block. it got maybe 1/4 mile then cut out, and has not started since.
here's a video I took with my phone
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEb6bdChHBE
I got a neighbour to pull me back to the house. I've checked the spark as much as I can (I don't have a lot of the fancy diagnostic stuff). but I've changed the plugs, checked the wires, the coils, and the ignition module. My haynes says to test for battery voltage between the fuse and the 5-pin (6 spot) connector that plugs into the module for battery voltage, and there was 11V there.
I'm now thinking it's fuel related. I can't hear anything but the relay click when turning the ignition on. Sometimes I'll; hear the clitter-clatter (how else to describe it) when it goes off. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to hand (it's a friends, and he's 90 miles away) but doing an unscientific test, there's sod all fuel pressure. First, I'm manually activating the pin in the scherer valve. When at the 40psi it should be at, it should spreay a good head of pressure. this was more of a dribble. when we used the fuel pump tester lead (that single pin connector attached to the fuel pump relay/fuse block) to power the pump with the valve open, it's giving its impression of the worlds weakest fountain - maybe 1/4-1/2" in height, nowhere near 40psi worth.
The other thing is, the car had a BAD overheating problem. If it's stood idling for 3-4 minutes, it'll overheat and die. I think it's to do with the red-hot plenum which surrounds the fuel rail - it's vaporising the fuel BEFORE the injectors, so they don't work right. The cooling temp switch for the fans was replaced 2 months ago. When the cable is unplugged, the fans run fine. when plugged in, they don't run at all. At first I thought it was the radiator cap, because it seemed like the valve that allows fluid to the overflow was not sealing, so it was pushing hot coolant into the overflow where it'd condense. Without that holding pressure, it'd never reach the 230F to trip the switch.
So two problem, first it won't start, and second, when ti does, it overheats.