Quote:
Originally Posted by tempfixit
hatethewinstar:
In post #8 you say that you put wire in the spark plug hole, then you had a hard time getting it out. Did this not help hold the vavle up?
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Yeah got the valve right up then something got knotted and blew a easy hour to get it out. After did it the other way and had both springs changed in about 45 minutes.
Don't put anything in the cylinders!
Just pull all plugs and you can rotate each cylinder to TDC by pulling on the serpentine belt. The only reason I didn't change all the springs was it got dark and cold out and I wanted to know if this one spring was really the heart of the problem. If you want to mess around with string and air in the cylinders that is fine just saying you don't need to. Best to change all the springs at this time anyways.
I also failed to mention I left the battery hooked up during this job just to retain the stored codes which at the time it had P0301 P0302 P0303 and when stumbling bad the engine light would flash.
Upon first start the the engine cranked over much differently and sounded like it did prior to all this happening. But the engine light never flashed again but remained on obviously and the motor ran smooth as can be. After about 30 minutes of nice idling I shut the engine off and erased all stored DTC's with scanner and to date about 150 miles have been put on the van and it runs excellent still and no DTC's have come back.
On a side note being compression could be extremely low the chances of unburnt fuel in the catalytic converters can damage them and if you have similiar symptoms you should address the problem right away. This unburnt fuel can plug a converter, however doesn't seem to have affected mine.
The hardest part of the job is taking that windshield cowling off and removing the plastic intake. Don't let the springs intimidate you that is the easy part!