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Re: 98 w/3.0 engine cranks but won't start?
You made a small mistake, there should be no continuity between the pins at the back and the big lugs at the front of the coil pack.
That's because the pins on the back are the 3 PRIMARY COILS which all tied together on one side (Pin #4) and the other side goes to the PCM (which applies either ground or voltage) for firing order.
The big lugs correspond to the 3 SECONDARY COILS this are physically separated from the primary coils, the magnetic field of the primary coils is induced into the secondary coils and that's what produces the voltage for each pair of cylinders (the engine fires 2 cylinders at a time)
What elevates the voltage from 12v to several thousands is the number of turns of the primary coil in relation with the number of turns of the secondary coil: if the primary has 10 turns and the secondary has 100 turns you'll have 10 times more voltage at the secondary than the primary.
After the theory let's go back to your problem. the readings for the second step should be taken from the big lugs at the top of the coil pack:
1 2 3
O O O --> COIL PACK LUGS
O O O --> COIL PACK LUGS
4 5 6
You should connect your multimeter between 1-4, 2-5, 3-6; each pair of lugs corresponds to the terminals of each secondary coil.
NOTE: the numbers have been used randomly, these do not correspond to the actual cylinder number.
Testing the fuel pressure does not takes much time, all you need is a fuel pressure tester which should be connected to the fuel test port at the injector rail on top of the engine.
Best regards,
Oscar.
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1995 Lincoln Town Car 4.6 Signature
1997 Pontiac Grand Prix GT 3.8
2000 Ford Windstar SE 3.8
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