Quote:
Originally Posted by shorod
It depends on how power was measured. If it was measured using a multimeter, the high impedance input of the meter will not load the circuit to tell if there is any current drive available. You could read near battery voltage but not have enough current to light a test light if there is corrosion in the circuit. Connecting fused jumper wires from the battery to the blower motor could help determine if corrosion may be an issue. I'd suggest backprobing the connector (connect the plug to the motor and measure the voltage from the back side of the connector) to see if, with the blower motor turned on, you have battery voltage at the blower motor or if it drops to just a few volts. If it remains battery voltage, the motor has an open in it. If it drops to just a volt or two and the motor isn't running, the problem is likely in the feed circuit. Since you have manual controls, I'd suggest that you set the blower motor speed setting to the high speed setting when making the measurements.
On rare occasions you could find that the voltage drops to just a few volts and the problem is a stalled motor (napkins sucked up when Max air selected, mouse nest, etc.) but in that scenario you'd probably notice the interior lights (when door open).
-Rod
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-Rod, if there was corrosion in the circuit somewhere, corrosion would act as resistance and instead of battery voltage multimeter would show much less.
Also customer's complaint was that the blower motor suddenly stopped working. This can't be corrosion then. We don't need to reinvent hot water here. This is simple, it can be one of the two poor connection or bad motor. He can measure resistance of the motor pins, if it reads open it is open, if it reads close to 0 ohms, motor is shorted.