Welcome to the forum MrSeajay. Did you try connecting 12V directly to the horns to see if they work? Remove the horn relay and see if you have 12V at the relay coil and switch inputs. The horn relay should have four contacts. Two of them should have 12V on them at all times. These are the feeds to the coil and switch. One of the other two contacts goes to the horns (this is the other side of the relay switch) and the last contact goes from the relay coil up to the horn button. If the relay doesn't have a picture on it showing what contacts are connected to the switch and coil, use an ohmmeter to determine which two contacts on the relay are connected to the coil. Only two contacts should have continuity between them. There will be some resistance due to the coil. Now that you know which contacts go to the coil, you know where to look on the connector that the relay plugs into for one of the 12V contacts. If you don't have 12V on one of the connector contacts then your problem is somewhere between the connector and the fuse. If you do have 12V on two of the connector contacts then the next step is to connect one probe of the ohmmeter to a good ground and the other probe to the connector contact that would go to the other side of the relay coil (the one without 12V on it). As I said before, this contact goes up to the horn button. With the ohmmeter connected you should show continuity when the horn button is pressed (meaning very low resistance). If you don't get a low resistance reading when you press the button then the problem is between the connector contact and the horn button. If everything seems to be ok at this point then the problem is between the relay switch output and the horns. Let me know how you make out with this problem.