I just ordered a Master Rebuild Kit, (that I hope has all the parts needed), from
www.transpartswarehouse.com in California. With shipping it will be about $230. I expect it to contain all the frictional pieces, the O rings, seals, gaskets, the valve body gaskets and tiny strainers, the 2-4 band, the oil pump valve upgrades, and an input seal retainer. If it doesnt I will let you know - it should arrive in four or five days, coming across the country.
If your battery is draining overnight, dont forget to check the things that are easy to forget; the tiny map lights in the dome light, the trunk light not shutting off, a digital radio that has a bad capacitor in its power supply and draws more than the 3 or 4 milliamps that it should. And so forth. One technique is to unplug all of the fuses, both the ones in the box under the hood and the ones inside the car - and put an ammeter in series between the battery positive post and the positive battery cable. With everything turned off it should show more than 5 or 10 milliamps current.
I think the automatic seat belts can draw current for quite a while, if they are binding up and not getting all the way to the end of the 'track'. On the cars with automatic transmission, there is an interlock to keep you from being able to pull the shift lever out of park - until you have put your foot onto the brake pedal. If that switch sticks shut, the little solenoid under the console might be drawing current all of the time.
Escort ignition switches dont have a good reputation for being reliable. I suppose its possible your ignition switch isnt fully turning the accessories off. The electrical part of the switch can be bought for about $40,and replaced independently of the part the ignition key goes into.