Hello there,
Thanks for your help with this problem. Thanks also for getting back to me so quickly Let me clear up some questions for you on here.
No check engine light is on if there were any codes then my light would be on and let me know.
1st off car does not overheat new radiator, new coolant, hoses and is good. Camry have temp guage usually sitting 3/8 or right before it reaches the half way point after the car is warmed up and has been driven for a bit. That is what mine does same as other camry models like mine when it gets hot the dual fans come on to cool it and again the gauge stays near half way point only after the car is warmed up and has been driven some.
The car will do the following problem with this exact example. You drive the car for some time 20 miles for example does not matter city or highway what matters is the car is hot and at its normal operating temperature i.e. guage sitting @ 3/8 near the halfway mark. Then you stop in store come back out in less THEN 5 MINUTES and the car starts up then the rpms drop very low. Sometimes (it did this yesterday) also after rpm's drop the engine will die. This can be fixed by 1 waiting 10 seconds restart car or 2 start car then give a lot of gas. NOTE the car has never done the problem that I am describing above with the fans on. In other words after turning key to run position but before I start the car the fans will sometimes come on to cool motor. When I try to start it with fans on then the motor will not die. I can still hear it missing a bit but rpm's are up higher because that is what the car does anyways when the fans come on. MORE AND MORE I am feeling/thinking this problem is fuel related and is bad. Here are some more ? 's for you sorry for so many but I have no choice.....
What would happen if the engine coolant temperature sensor is bad? I think if it were bad then it may be out of range and not telling the computer the car is hot. This could produce an excessivley rich mixture for a hot engine? What do you think am I correct? If I am correct about above then it should be looked into please advise me thanks.
What does the fuel pressure regulator do? If it were bad could it cause the problem I am describing the car not starting only when hot? Thanks for your help in this matter.
How can I test the system to see if the coolant is circulating in the system?
Thanks for your help in all these questions and with this matter. Oh BTW I changed spark splugs today and one was bad it had the tip where you measure gap touching the plug so that can't be good. Color was okay a little hot (white) but not too bad. Could some bad plugs cause the problem described above? Thanks for all your help
Dave
Quote:
Originally Posted by RIP
Ya got me a little confused (not hard to do). In your first post you say the problem is there when the car is hot. In your second post you say you can't duplicate the problem until it's 82 deg out. So are you now saying your problem is dependant on outside temperature and not just the engine temperature???
Fuel pressure? First, I don't fix cars for a living. I fix cars as problems pop up just for the challenge and have been doing it for 30+ years. I don't recall working a hot stall problem. That said, generally a failing fuel pump causes lack of acceleration at speed or hard starts. I can't rule it out as the cause of your problem but there are other things I would look at first. I would connect a fuel pressure gauge and check the pump pressure before spending the bucks and time changing it. The filter? I would vote no but, it's an easy and comparatively cheap stab at the problem that wouldn't hurt either way especially if it hasn't been changed lately.
Before you spend weeks bangin your head on this problem and wish you had checked it to start with, read the factory manual and find the procedure to check for fault codes (if you havn't already). It involves jumpering two contacts on the test connector and watching how many blinks the check engine light gives you. You may not get anything or you could get a code that leads you to the problem in a hurry.
> You say you changed the IAC valve. Did you test to make sure it's getting a command to move from the ECU? Test procedure should be in the manual.
> High on my list would be a vacuum leak. They can be elusive. Take a closer look at the vacuum lines especially at or near the connections and for chaffing along it's length. I once had a leak in a line that could only be seen when pressurised under water. Spray brake cleaner (leaves no film) around the intake manifild gasket area with the engine running. If the idle bumps up when spraying a particular area, you found a leak. EGR is a vacuum hog. You've cleaned it but have you tested it? See the manual. The brake booster hose is often overlooked.
> Besides a vacuum leak I'm thinking engine temp sensor, air inlet temp sensor, O2 sensor, MAP/MAF sensor if equipped. They all deal with temperature. Test procedures shoud be in the manual.
> Fuel main relay? You guessed it...check the manual.
> http://www.aa1car.com/common_car_problems.htm Full of good info, includes topics on stalling and vacuum leaks. Also scan through the FAQs thread at the top of the forum. It's full of info. Lots of links to system background info.
I understand your frustration. I've been there many times. The good thing? I've learned a thing or two about cars and how they work in the process of fixing these contraptions. What you learn now will come in handy in spades in the future on any car. |