13-14 seconds in a 3200lb car?
basic as hell...
you'll need anything in the range of 330+hp. The F-bodies can run into the 13's stock. (13.7 to be exact)
So, the easiest way to gain power... is??? Up the CUBES!
Stroker the 350 into a 383. You can purchase a 400 crank for fairly cheap.
For this you'd want to look into buying ...
- 350 4 Bolt Block
- Hign Nodular 3.750 Stroke Crank With 5.7" Stage 1 GM Rods
- Hypereutectic Flat Top Pistons (491 ) Gram WT.
This should take care of the lower part of the motor...
The fun accessories...
- Dart Iron Eagle Heads, 200cc Intake Runners, 2.02"/ 1.60 Valves
- Manely .080 Wall Heat Treated Pushrods
- Comp. Cams Roller Tip Rocker Arms
- Cloyes Dbl. Roller Timing Set
- Comp. Cams Extreme Energy Hyd. Cam .477"/ /480" Lift, 224° / 230° @ .050 268° /280° Adv. Dur., 110 L/C
- Alum. Dual Plane Intake Manifold (any manufacturer will do)
- At least a 700cfm Carb. Vacuum or Mechanical secondaires is your choice.
I guess i'll describe the difference between the two... in Lazy-mans terms. When you mash out with a Vacuum style secondary 4bbl, the Secondaries dont kick in till the intake manifold builds enough vacuum to open up the lil flap that lets in more air. Vacuum carbs are better for everyday driving with occasional 'rally-time'. Mechanical on the other hand is for the racer at heart, it doesnt wait for vacuum it just works off throttle position and just starts to dump in mass fuel when you hit the throttle. It isnt the best for everyday, but is best for race applications.
This set up, should only run you $3100 out the door.
Giving you a budget motor that makes 400+hp and well over 420Ft-lbs. Infact its whats in my car, which dyno's out at 423hp, 437ft-lbs. At 10.25:1 compression you're stuck at 91 octane. But you'll burn most anything on the street...
NOW, for something a bit more tame.... this is the ZZ4 350... which will set you back $3400-3500 bones for just 355hp/405ft-lbs if you buy it. But you can build it cheaper yourself.
What you'll need..
- Cast Iron 4-Bolt Main, 4.000" Bore
- Crankshaft: Forged Steel, 3.480" Stroke*
- Heads, Chamber Size: Aluminum, 58cc Chamber Valves 1.940"/1.500"*
- Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Lift 0.474"/0.510"
Dur. @ 0.050" 208/221 degrees
- Intake: Aluminum Dual Plane
*Aluminum heads will set you back a bit more than you may want to spend, but with 10:1 compression they'll help keep detonation to a minimal. But if the motor is tuned right, Iron Heads will save you money and will work just fine.
* You dont need a forged steel crank shaft. Unless you'd want to use Nitrous... save yourself the green.
Like i mentioned, this motor will have 10:1 compression so 89 octane or better would be a must... 87 will work but it'll ping like crazy. So stay with the 89+ cause it'll give you a good 350Hp and 400ft-lbs.
The Monte will move right along with either motor... I GARUANTEE nothing about smog though. I cannot say it will pass, if you plan to make this into a drag car only then YAY! If not... good luck!
One last choice you have if you want it to be a daily driver. And i cannot stress the coolness of this motor, the EFI Vortec 350. 330hp/380ft-lbs. It will pass smog like no other, give you great milege, and well... move that Monte around with ease!
Hope I was of help...