Quote:
Originally Posted by cinqster
Looking good Garey!
Can I jump in on the casting stuff? I've had quite a lot of practice with white metal recently and have a couple of suggestions, which I hope don't sound too patronizing! 
IMHO, I'd skip the sand casting bit completely...it's very trial and error + time consuming! I recommend using a high temp rubber for making moulds. I use stuff called 'R101' in the UK - I'm sure there's an equivalent over there! It's a two part rubber that sets up like an ordinary silicone product, but it takes the heat needed for white metal/pewter. It also allows you to quickly repeat the pour, if it goes horribly wrong...and it will! Making yet another sand mould takes forever, trust me on this! My best moulds using this stuff occur if a hit the mould with a flame before pouring the metal which appears to drive off the oxygen. A light covering with talc also keeps a smoother finish on the surface and bit of flux (borax) and dare I say (some pure lead) helps the metal flow with very little bubbles. One more tip with the red rubber - it appears to 'condition' with repeated heating and often gives the best results after around 5-6 previous pours...good luck man!
Oh, and I'd go for big, fat solder for the headers...gives you loads of chance to reshape as you go. Bring your granny and I'll bring the eggs next time! |
Thanks for the tips! I've actually had decent success with sand casting, but you're right about quality vs. time spent on multiples... silicone is the way to go... I still have to make the master, so I'm a ways off yet, but I'm looking forward to it. Had to correct a small problem I discovered on the frame tonight. Took the better part of the evening, so no new photos, but it's right as rain, now... I'll need 1/4" diameter solder for the header tubes and then I have to be able to attach it to the sidepipes and then chrome it... I may have to go with brass rod, I think, but solder is great for headers... granny and eggs, eh? Never heard that one... do explain...
Garey