Here's how I did it. I jacked the car up at all four corners, and had to get it around 1 1/2 to 2 feet high, and made my own tool with a nylon barb that had a threaded base (Ace hardware). I took the aluminum allen cap from the tank to the hardware store so as to get a close match on the thread base of the nylon barb. Nylon is important. Brass would damage the tank aperture threads. The cap is metric, so all you can do is get a close match. I wrapped masking tap around the barb base to take up the gap between the base and the tank aperture, and did a few dry fittings so that I could get it nice and tight. Won't last forever, but it didn't leak, and lasted long enough to drain the tanks. I stayed under the car and kept my hand on the barb throughout. The tank aperture works like a schrader valve, so I trimmed a yellow electrical wire nut until it was the correct length to depress the valve in the tank aperture, then I drilled out the nut so the gas could flow through it, and dropped it inside the threaded base of the barb. I fixed a clear plexi hose to the barb, and screwed the whole thing into the tank aperture, turning the hose as I screwed it in. You need to have the hose connected to the barb because the gas comes out as soon as the Schrader valve is depressed in the tank aperture. The gasoline flows out gently--no dramatic torrent. It's not the easiest thing to work with, but it worked well enough, and I managed to drain both of my tanks of a total of about 7 gallons of watery gasoline. I priced the actual tool at the dealership, and I think it cost about $200.