It's perfect for resin & plastic. Yes, it's liquid, but thickness is in between liquid cement and the old tube glues, kind of like syrup. I generally have a mixing card with the Zap a Gap (yes, it's CA), and use toothpicks/craft sticks to apply the glue. I apply the glue to the surface that another part is going to mate, then apply that part. It dries reasonably quick, but I always use an accelerator...once it's in place & I hit w/a drip of accelerator, the part is set. I hate waiting. I quit using old tube glues years ago. Waaaaay too slow for me. I test fit a part to make sure it fits before applying CA glue.
You can use a drop of this stuff to fill small areas...if it's bodywork that needs to be sanded flush, you really do need to hit it w/an accelerator & sand it immediately, after an hour it crystallizes and is harder than the plastic around it. When it's first cured it's about the same hardness as the plastic, easy to sand down. When gluing the front/back half of seats, I apply a generous bead of the CA all around the joint, zap it with accelerator, and then sand away the excess with sanding sticks. No waiting for putty to dry. A seat can be done in minutes...not overnight.
Sometimes I'll use a medium CA, the thin ones are a bit dangerous IMHO, I haven't needed super thin CA in all the years I've been building, the Zap a Gap is my CA of choice for building 90% of any model. I use liquid styrene cement to glue sub assemblies prior to painting, and canopy glue for clear items, and epoxy when I need a really permanent bond.