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Originally Posted by estradajordan@ymai
first. not to be lame, but... P.A.T.S., V.A.T.S., passlock, passkey, ect. are basicaly not much different. If you don't know what to call it because you don't know much about cars or trucks, ... thats ok, everybody, including me was there once... It is called a .."TRANSPONDER BASED SYSTEM"... I didn't need to go through auto. school and years of expirience to tell you that, even though I did, mabey,,,just to tell you that. Now I'm NOT trying to be a jerk or p@@@ anyboy off but this is my first day on this and I don't get on comp's. very much but I do know something about automotive technology.
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Well how about you just not reply to anything on here if you don't have any helpfull tips to give???? I mean even what you say is wrong anyways. The systems on most, not all GM vehicles is NOT a transponder based system. Ford, Chrysler, Toyota, and Honda to name a few are all transponder based which means the "code" is inside the key and is radio based. This isn't to be confused with the old VATS systems that GM used where you actually could see a chip in the body of the key. Again, there are some GM lines line in the Pontiac and Caddy lines that use the transponder systems. ALL 2009 AND 2010 GM CARS USE A HYBRID PASSKEY II AND III SETUP.
The best and cheapest way to completely fix this is to do the following.....
Tools: Ohm meter, wire strippers, wire crimpers, needed resistance value in resistors.
Get behind the ignition switch. See large harness going to ignition switch. Open up that harness and you should see a bunch of large gauge wires. Look closely and you should see 3 tiny ones (yellow, black, and white). Grab the black and yellow wires. Start the car (hopefully security goes off). Cut yellow wire and meter the cut end that's toward the ignition switch and the black wire. Then meter that cut yellow wire again but next put the other lead of the meter to chassis ground. Which ever value is higher get a resistor(s) that closely match that number you got when you metered those wires. Take the OTHER end of the cut yellow wire and install the resistor to it and then to the black wire or chassis ground. Shut car off and start it. Light should go out. If the car starts then stalls, you may need to adjust the resistance value. If security light is on, verify that you have the correct end of the yellow wire attached to the resistor. If so, it should go out on its own after a while.
If your light was on steady before doing this repair and is still on, you may need to do the relearn sequence. This is the ONLY way to disable this system and not have to worry if your car's battery goes dead.