[Smith1000]

I just went out and washed the wires a bit on the connector. The wire I called brown and black actually looks more like tan and black, now that I have it cleaned off. The wire left of it, and just a bit higher, is pink, or faded red and is a slightly heavier gauge. The connector is round and I counted 7 wires coming out of it.

You could easily test to determine if 12V will fix the problem if you run a straight pin through the tan/blk wire and clip an alligator connector on the pin. Run the other end to the battery and then drive it. It should remain locked out w/no fishbite as there would be a constant 12 v to the tcc. This might at least let you know if it will change the condition.

On mine, I had talked to a guy at a transmission shop. He told me I should just drive it until the transmission goes out all together. He said if they pulled it, they would want to do a complete rebuild anyway. I thought I might get 20 to 30,000 miles out of it before it failed completely. That was a long time ago.

The tcc won't lock in until you hit about 40 mph. My thought was, that if I were a person who only did in-town driving, the tcc would rarely or never lock-in anyway. This would be true in particular if driving across town from stop light to stop light and, say the speed limit was 30 or 35 mph. When it is locked in, pressing on the brake disengages the tcc instantly. For most of in-town driving, the tcc will never lock-in, unless it gets going fast enough.

Also, I did install a transmission cooler on the car. This only ran about $20 or $25. It attached to the radiator with some zip strips. Had to run lines to it to carry the fluid. I also use Lucas automatic transmission fluid additive in it and, Slick 50 auto transmission additive.