Today's News:
I started late today (like an hour ago) and cleaned #6 and #5 plug bores before I put the new plugs in. Both are gapped wrong and way too low from the factory spec and neither gap matches either. DOUBLE WRONG.
Those plugs I've removed (taking a while cause of cleaning the oil/fuel mix out of the plug bores first) are both not set to the right gap at all. In fact they are like .046 on #6 and #5 is .039. #6 was filthy wet with fuel and oil. #5 was wet with fuel, but not as much as #6 and thats probably because #5 was removed by me previously and I cleaned it up hoping that would do the trick. Still, .039 gap when you are supposed to be in a range of .052 - .056 to me is waaaay off and not enough spark to burn all the fuel properly..... hence another reason that expedited fouling my plugs.
I just hope that I haven't ruined the plug wires SOMEHOW????
I guess if the new plugs do not fix anything I'll have to make sure the NEW plug wires weren't ruined too when the electrical gremlins were still present (hoping that I did get all those gremlins too). Your instructions for the timing light would tell me this answer.
I pulled the O2 sensor in the front too, and found it had fuel still moist on it and it was a tiny bit oily too like the plugs were. I hope some seals aren't ruined now letting too much oil into the plug chambers???? Comments on that??
I may go back out in a bit and finish the 3rd plug (plug #4) before the sun goes down and do the rear bank tomorrow since I don't wanna be eaten alive by mosquitoes and other insects while I'm inserting my body into the engine bay. I think I can reach the rear plugs just by removing the air pipe and nothing else. Looks easier than I had previously thought except for the pain of laying on top the engine.
Reply to post:
Are you saying gapping the plugs isn't important?
I had thought gapping the plugs to the right gap spacing was important on all plugs except Iridium's, but even then I don't see why you wouldn't gap them if you can do it without touching the center electrode.
If you were just talking about being careful while gapping, I haven't touched the center electrode at all except to check the size. While gapping, I have devised a tool/method to not touch the center electrode.
How long after the motor is running right ya think I should change the oil? After 1 tank of gas? I ask cause I was thinking about getting ALL the fuel out before I waste money on more oil.
Is there an additive that helps to get rid of fuel in the oil that wouldn't gum up my new engine?
Good point on the CEL. I thought about that. I bet it wouldn't kick the code till the vehicle reaches full operating temp.
I don't plan on starting it again until all the plugs are removed, inspected and new ones installed.
I would have to get very clever about unplugging the injectors because I really don't see how I could reach the connectors to unplug them with the whole intake put back on. I have a long spring grabber tool though for things that fall down during repairs...... maybe I can weasel that thing in there and open the clips up with a small pick at the same time. Only problem with that is that 3 of the injector connector's clips are broken and I secured them with security ties before putting the intake back on. I'd have to weasel a clipper in there first to get those off to do this test and then I'd have no way of redoing the security ties unless I'd take off the intake again. 
I continuity/resistance tested the injector harness separately with no power to it and it checked out fine. I now remember though that I only got as far as injector #2 and #3 before Fuse S blew out prior to the PCM wiring repairs. It was that testing and manipulation of the wiring that caused the fuse to blow mid-test. So I know the injector harness is good, but I don't know if the PCM is grounding it right or if its LIVE all the time on that live 12v ground wire.
Keep in mind, my injectors are brand new so they should be operating just fine barring irregular PCM signals (grounding on/off).
Thanks Carl.