[manicmechanix]

I think the GM design is pretty good. I just think they could've drilled the holes for the strut bolts so the replacement strut would be Camber "neutral" in dimension like the originals are and leave it at that.


That's interesting with the jacking plates. So do they lift and lower at the tires and allow you to add or remove camber? This would make knuckle move within the strut once the bolts are loosened which is about impossible to do by hand. Seems like it would be tricky to get access to the strut bolts to loosen and then tighten them with the tire still on though.

That must be some impact you have that will spin the bolts and chew out the knuckle with the bolt splines. I don't mean to question how you do it, but the splines and interference fit are some of the pluses of the GM design-the bolt and the camber can't move with the splines and interference fit. Say you have a replacement strut with the bottom hole already elongated (For the originals the factory service material says to take the strut off and elongate the bottom hole, yeah right) why not just tap the original bolts out, shift the camber, then tap them back in and tighten? Would it be hard to access them with the wheels on and on the alignment rack?

I also understand there are aftermarket eccentric bolts that allow you to adjust the camber. But they have the problem of being smaller and weaker than the original bolt and the camber can move. I just think GM should've either put a wel ldesigned eccentric bolton the strut to adjust camber or just made the holes at a standard unadjustable neutral dimension.