Quote:
Originally Posted by CrateCruncher
I have found DuPont's 2K clear is harmless and rock hard.
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I've used it. It's great stuff if you want ultra super gloss, but I build old race cars, and they don't want to be that shiny. It's also really hard to strip off, and multiple coats don't blend into that single coating like lacquer does. Because of that characteristic, the lacquers are easy to patch. As you suggested, you get a seamless repair. But in my experience, there's no patching urethane. If you screw up, you have to repaint the whole car.
But your message does raise the excellent point that I may have thinned the TS13 too much. I like thin lacquer because it's easy to spray and it produces less paint build-up and less orange peel. But maybe I overdid it this time.
Of course, the urethanes are thinned too, with UR40 - at least that's the reducer that my auto paint supplier recommends, and it's what I use for urethane base coats. I don't know what UR40 is, chemically speaking, but it smells and acts a lot like lacquer thinner. It's my guess that if you thin urethane (like Dupont, PPG and Zero) way down with UR40, it will eat decals just like TS13 thinned way down with lacquer thinner.
Synthetic lacquers are so good in so many ways that I'm inclined to try work around the decal issue. Seems like the trick is to find the right consistency - thick enough to keep from dissolving the decals; thin enough to minimize OP. Assuming I don't just shoot the UPOL straight out of the can, that's what I'll shoot for
on the next go-round.
Ddms