UPDATE!
Today I took the master cylinder back off. After I took it back off, I preformed a "vice bleed" on it to remove any air from the M. cylinder. I then cleaned off the rubber gasket, removed the old paint and debris from the vacuum and M. cylinder, applied some RTV sealer to the master cylinder, re attached the master cylinder, then attached the break lines to the cylinder.
I have not yet bleed the brake lines because it started raining outside. But I did start the engine and tried to see if there was any resistance in the pedal. I didnt notice any difference
!!!!!!!
*NOTE* I know that some people in here probably do not know how to do a "Vice bleed" on a new master cylinder. I learned how to do this today. I will explain how it can be done. Please remember that you will only need to preform this step if you have air trapped in the mstr. cyl., or if you are replacing it with a new or newer one.
Some models I believe have a bleeder screw attached right on the mas. cyl., but if not this is how:
1. Remove all break lines that are attached to the master cylinder. (make sure not to get any fluid on the plastic grill or other plastic parts. Keep the fluid away from all paint as well)
2. Remove the 2 bolts that mount the master cylinder to the power break booster.
3. Using a vice, securely fasten the master cylinder (be careful not to damage the mstr. cyl.)
4. Use bleeding tubes (from automotive shop. Or you can make your own with 2 10"-14" break lines*This is what I did*) and thread them to the master cylinder.
5. Bend the tubes over and insert them into the reservoir. Make sure the res. is 3/4 full and place the tubes below fluid level.
6. Using a blunt tipped rod ( I used a socket extension), slowly press the piston in ALL THE WAY until it stops. You should see bubbles come out of the tubes.
7. Continue pressing in piston until you see no more bubbles.
8. After the bubbles are gone, there will be no more air in the master cylinder. Then remove from vice, remove the lines or bleader tubes, and re-install the master cylinder to the power brake booster.
After you complete the bleeding of your master cylinder and it is not raining outside you must bleed the brake lines to remove the rest of the air out of the system. (remember to start from the tire that is farthest away from the master cylinder and work your way to the tire that is closest. That way you will avoid any air from getting back into your hydrolic system.) I hope that this will help someone out in case you run into the same problem and want to try to do this yourself and save some money.
If I have any info wrong and someone would like to correct me, please do so. I am not a mechanic, Im just a do-it-yourself kind of guy and Im just learning. Thanks