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Re: Fire extinguisher agent in motor oil.
Drain the oil and remove the filter.
Pull the valve cover, stuff rags in the drainback holes in the head and blast out any dry chemical that's caked up around the valve springs, stems, seals and rocker arms/cam followers using compressed air. If it's a V engine, you only need to do this to the side with the oil filler cap.
Reinstall valve cover, use new gasket as needed.
Pull the oil pan and clean the pickup screen. Reinstall the oil pan.
Install a new filter and fresh oil. Use 1 quart of a oil system treatment/cleaner, marvel mystery oil is a favorite of mine.
Re-change the oil and FILTER (it will plug up if there is still dry chem in the engine) at 250 miles, then again after another 500. Keep using a treatment/cleaner. Resume normal oil change intervals.
Some engines have a screen in the drainback holes on the cylinder head, and should you have this it would have helped alot. Not sure if VW does this, I never touched the engine on the only VW we've owned (wife's 99 Beetle) The oil filter and pickup screen will have stopped most of the dry chem that did get past the heads.
If you're at the point where you carry around 1.25 gallons of oil in the car and use the low pressure light as a dipstick, odds are any damage by the dry chemical are only accelerating what was bound to happen anyway.
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Wanted to buy:
86-88 Fiero GT, 5 speed, fixer-upper. Blown motor, no motor? No problem! Rusty unibodies need not apply.
74-79 Ramcharger or 100, slant or no motor - not interested in v8 - Overdrive 4 is a big plus, NO hopeless rust buckets!!! 
3Rd gen F body floor pans/camaro door skin (L)
 Why is it I see so many "Proud to be an American" bumper stickers on the backs of cars made in Japan or Korea??????
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