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Originally Posted by ponchonutty
Sorry but what you did wasn't the fix. Also, my way of fixing isn't "hacking" up stuff. What you did was just change the mechanical side of the switch. You needed to change out the "electrical" side of the switch which includes the decoder. When you change out the system you MUST do the relearn sequence per GM instructions. When GM first started having issues with this system while they started doing the same repair you did. At first it seemed to fix the problem but usually with in 6 months, the symptoms come back. Then they swap out the part that holds the decoder. Again, using the GM parts is only temporary while using the resistor is a done deal.
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Ponch, I have been keeping up on the threads here and I have a correction. The stock GM ignition switch is of a mechanical point contact type switch.
The electrical portion of the switch does not contain the hall effect sensors that operate the passlock system. The hall effect sensors are contained in the tumbler assembly with the key. When the tumbler is removed with the key from the ignition switch, the sensors go with it. I had to replace my ignition switch since the electrical switch contacts were fouled, I disassembled the switch to inspect the contacts, they were burned and pitted. Even though the switch operates with a rotary motion there is no wiping action on the switch so the contacts are never cleaned. I can provide pictures of the switch internals if necessary. It is possible to burnish the contacts and restore the original switch provided they have not been burned and retempered (softened). This requires very little in tools but does require a very fine diamond file or crocus cloth to dress the contacts. I installed a new switch so I have the older one available. I did install a resistor on the passlock circuit to alleviate any issues with that. I posted previously on my extensive investigation on the the system see page 15 for the full write up.
logoody
I am a journyman electronics technician.