re-clarification:
The EG civic has a pancake mount, as in, the mount is a rubber "pancake" with a bolt in the middle...
EF monts are ALL through-bolt mounts... i.e. the actual fastener is a bolt that goes through the mount, and the mount's suspension is supported by the bolt in a "shear" fashion, meaning that all the force is on the side of the bolt, perpendicular to it's length.
With "pancake" mounts, the fastener is arranged in a way that puts the force (load) on the threads of the fastener, or parallel to the length of the fastener... (*this is not entirely true, due to the way the engine moves, but for this case, and for the sake of my fingers and all the typing I'd have to do to clarify further, we'll use it as is.)
The "front" of the engine is ALWAYS the closest area to the number 1 cylinder, or the crank snout, when being referenced... just like the "front left" of your car is driver's side front, as though you're sitting in the car... it's referenced this way to avoid confusion due to transverse engine arrangements where "front of engine" could be confused to mean "area closest to front of engine bay".
What was actually meant by my last post was that he'd have to change the EG mount to an EF mount, only needing to change the one that was closest to the crank snout, meaning "front engine".
You can also remove the stabilizer mount from the "front of the engine" that penetrates a rubber mount on the chassis of the EG you get the engine from, or you can take that mount and use it, but it will require slight modification to the engine side of the mount, and obviously to your chassis, as you don't have pre-drilled/tapped holes for that mount.
It's VERY unneccessary to use, but some have used it for that extra vibration dampening.
This concludes "Physical Science as it applies to Engine Swapping Theory 101"