I found this explanation of how to loosen troublesome nuts:
Quote:
The Tie Rod End:
The end connects to the strut with a conical 'rod' locked with a nut, and the tie rod screws into the end and also has a locking nut.
Either one of these nuts can be difficult to remove - - so here's how.
(1) Using the 22mm (I think) spanner, release the locking nut on the tie rod (the one that locks the rod to the end).
This may be quite difficult, but since the end is still bolted to the strut, it will not turn so this is easier. Sometimes the tie rod turns with the nut, in which case: - Use plenty of WD40 (probably a good idea anyway)
- Use the wire brush to clean the threads (probably a good idea anyway)
- Use the locking pliers to hold the tie rod, and release the nut
(2) Using a socket, release the nut that locks the ball joint to the strut. You can expect this nut to be quite stuck as well. If you let the steering rack move to full lock, you'll have something to push against. Remove this nut completely.
The ball joint must now be removed from the strut. And, it will probably be stuck as well... So, just use the bottle jack to hold the strut - put it under the bits that the ball joint is in, as close as possible to the ball joint, and lift it a bit - just enough for the jack to take the weight. Then hit the stud on the ball joint - sooner or later, it will pop out.
When you have the ball joint free, remove it from the tie rod, and count the number of turns. Then, put on the new one, with the same number of turns. This will set the tracking close enough so you can drive the car to the garage for accurate tracking - it's *not* good enough to keep.
Put the ball joint in the strut, and tighten the locking nut. The ball joint may turn in it's hole, so use the locking pliers to apply a *bit* of pressure to it while you tighten. Once it 'catches' it's usually OK.
Tighten the tie rod locking nut - this time, use two spanners, one on the nut and one on the tie rod end. The easier method is only good for a ball joint you're about to throw away.
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My Notes: Liquid Wrench apparently works far better than WD40.
The locking pliers (vise-grips) are placed so that they lean against some part of the frame to prevent them turning.
Notice that the 'tie rod end' is also a ball-joint, although the actual 'ball joints' (upper and lower) are entirely different joints, which hold the wheel on, and are not part of the steering. This is just a terminology cafuffle.
This guy seems to be suggesting using the jack holding up the front end to assist in freeing the tapered bolt. I am not sure how good this idea is. I am betting on the fork tool being the best approach. Even hitting the fork tool seems better than hitting part of the wheel.
Again this guy suggests that 'counting turns' is going to be inaccurate as a means of setting toe-in.
I like the idea suggested by someone of using the lock nut to keep track, but this will only work if the tie rod itself is not rotated, and the replacement tie rod end is identical to the old one.
It seems simpler and sensible just to take some accurate measurements for where the original tie rod end is, (center of joint to a point on the tie rod) and duplicate this distance, while preventing tie rod from rotating.
Again, nobody seems to know or care what the torque is supposed to be for this castle-nut! This is really beginning to bother me.