Well, I figured out why my knock sensor wasnt working! The plug for the knock sensor was cut and I was plugging it into that other random plug next to it. Sooo, I hacked the knock sensor plug off of my extra harness, soldered the bitch on, plugged er in, turned the key to "on", and waited for a CEL. Never came. Plugged in the compy and went for a drive to see how it pulled when it wasnt seeing 3.2 degrees of knock. All I have to say is holy fuckin shit. The difference was almost night and day, especially in 1st and 2nd. Third was definately better, but not as impressive as 2nd. Quick question, so when a person is talking about a "count" of knock, are they talking about degrees of knock? (Thats the "Knock" value logged by DSMlink) Or are they talking about the "RawKnock" value?
So I took a few pulls to check it out. First real pull was in 3rd gear to 5144 rpm. Everything looked pretty good, but I thought the timing lookeda little off. I got .4 degrees of knock (the RawKnock value was 1) for like 150 rpms starting at about 3850, but that was the most I ever got. I got to 74.5% IDC on that pull and managed to log about 20.3 lbs/min. BoostEst was off quite a bit too. Anyway, here's the
link.
I took another pull after getting to another semi deserted road. I started logging partway through first gear and decided to get on it for second and third gear. I didnt even go WOT on it until about 4800 rpms, I was mostly watching the boost guage to see if I got boost creep or not. Sure enough I accidentally revved the bitch out to 6637 rpms. Why is that bad? 450's + FP2's + 16g = teh pwnage. I hit 100% IDC at 6500 rpms and when I hit my peak RPM at 6637 rpms I was at 102.7 IDC.
After I revved that high I was a litte scared and just let 3rd gear hang. I guess I dodged a bullet on that one, where I did get .4 degrees knock from 6100-6260 (RawKnock value was 1) I was at like 94.9%-95.2% IDC there, I didnt get any knock when I got at or over 100% IDC. I did hit 28 lbs per minute too, so eat that Tim.
Anyway,
here's that log. The timing looked right on that last log, despite the knock.
So what do you guys think? Anything look uber bad? I was going to try to get the MAF calibrated and get the fuel trims in line, but you need to do WOT pulls to redline which I obviously cant do. My FIC 1000's should be here like Monday so I am just going to wait to do any changes until then. I was also thinking that I should upgrade from the 1g MAF soon, when does it start to overrun? I kind of wanted to get a 2g MAF, but I know a guy I might be able to get a really cheap GM MAF and translator and I was thinking about going with a 3 bar GM MAP sensor too but I really need to do my research on that first.
EDIT: So Thor feels like a moron. I started to look at the MAF calibration and saw that I needed to enter the elevation and shit. Sure enough default is 0ft elevation and I am at around 1350ft. I changed it and it was right up in the neighborhood of where it was supposed to be. I also see that VE is around 5000-5500 so I guess I will do it tomorrow.
Tim, I search DSMlink forums to look for the fuel trim stuff, but didnt find much useful. I was looking at the jeffgst.com site's article on MAS/MAF calibration page. It looks like that is only for the 1200, 1600, 2000, and 2400 hz sliders. So I look at the top of the page and he has the link for "Fuel Trim Calibration Page." So I check that out and it went through the process of using the Lo, Mid, and Hi LTFT's and STFT to adjust the 50, 150, 250, and 400 hz. Is that what you were talking about? A simple yes or no is fine, I can search for the rest.
Next questions... on the "Fuel Trim Calibration Page" for the 50 and 150 hz sliders it says to just rev to the 50 hz and 150 hz. Does that mean free revving while the car is stationary? What about the 250 and 400 hz sliders, for those it says to "cruise on the open road until a stable XXX hz." Does that mean pretty much any gear, any speed, any TPS, etc? Does the same go for the 800 hz slider?