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Re: 4L60E Problem
maxwedge, thanks for reply.
Ignition switch failure was suggested by the VB guy. The same circuit powered by the Ignition Switch thru the 10A Trans fuse also powers the PRND321 Shift Indicator Lamp thru a separate wire circuit from the fuse. No loss of Indicator Lamp when failure occurs.
Also, the 1-2 Shift Solenoid is powered from the same Ignition Switch circuit as the 2-3 Shift Solenoid. The 1-2 Shift Solenoid performs flawlessly, triggers 3-4 gear change in D4 even when coast downshift to 2nd & 1st fails.
So I have ruled out the Ignition Switch as source of failure.
I am very skeptical of debris being a problem. This is the only symptom I'm getting. If debris was an issue, why is it just hanging in 3rd gear? Never fails to shift up or down in any other situation. Only symptom occurs while coasting to a stop.
This problem did not occur until after Reman VB installed. See first post, basically Trans never was an issue except on rare long (2+ hours) highway drives. And on those occasions, the trans did not always exhibit violent/hard 1-2 shift after exiting the highway, but when it did, I would pull over, shut the engine off for a few mins. and then drive on with normal shifting.
The trans had just a light film of black on the pan when I dropped it. Fluid was not burnt. No signs of any significant deterioration.
The Reman unit was NOT my original, came complete with Solenoids and I sent my complete unit back as a core.
Have owned vehicle since new, so know the complete history.
The Sonnax TCC sleeve was installed, the unit was then pressure tested and solenoids were electrically tested. I assume solenoids were not new unless they were found defective in the test. Just presumably good used solenoids.
It was advertised as "completely remanufactured" with "tested solenoids" but I'm not sure what else was new except for the Sonnax TCC Regulator Valve.
I am reasonably certain that the 2-3 Solenoid is energized ON when this failure occurs. You can actually feel the "pop" when it does drop into 1st gear after being stuck in 3rd at the stop. I don't think it is logical to believe that the Solenoid is suddenly powered, I believe it is powered the whole time, and finally the Solenoid kicks the valve thru the bore.
Nobody has any comment on the possibility that a Solenoid could become weak? Or whether it is overcoming line pressure to move the Valve when the Solenoid is energized?
I don't see any Seals/O-rings on the Valve itself, it looks like there are O-rings on the actuator of the Solenoid, perhaps if they are damaged or missing, leakage past them might impair the Solenoid from pushing on the Valve causing an intermittent "stuck" valve?
I'm thinking I will just get a new Solenoid, drop the pan, pull the Valve & Shuttle out to see if there is any sign of sediment or unusual wear on it, put it back together with the new Solenoid and cross my fingers unless somebody has a better idea?
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