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Old 02-22-2008, 11:59 AM
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Re: Air-Cooled GB: '66 Beetle

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrari TR
A 40% off coupon and a couple of nearby hobbylobby's can be hard on the old wallet.
I can imagine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whumbachumba
I'm going to lower it without a doubt, but I don't know how to do it with this kit since the suspension set up is really weird. If anybody can give me any insight on how to lower it I would appreciate it very much.
It's certainly not the easiest kit to lower, but it does look possible. Unfortunately to lower the rear, you may need to undue some of what you've already done on the engine.

For the front, don't mess at all with the trailing arms (C10)- if you cut this part up, you're going to have serious strength issues with the front suspension. Instead, you can modify the uprights a bit (C42 and C45). Grind some height off of the top pivot points, and replace that amount by building it up with sheet styrene on the bottom pivots. A set of digital/dial calipers would help alot with this kind of modification, to make sure you've removed and rebuilt the same amount on each. It may not drop the front end much, but you should be able to get at least a scale inch, maybe two. Maybe more? -depends on your skill.

For the rear, obviously the trailing arms (C15 and C8) need to be sprung upwards. The problem is that the kit uses the drive shafts (C9) for structural support of the trailing arms. C9 already has a nice bend to it- if it were to be mounted in the transmission halves upside down (and C15 and C8 were to be mounted to it as such), it would probably drop the rear end a fair bit. The alignment lug on C9 would have to be removed. The points where C15 and C8 attach to C11 would have to be modified slightly to allow the arms to be mounted in a deflected position- and then these points should be solidly glued with epoxy or CA for strength. I'm not absolutely certain that there would be no fit conflict with other parts (that's for you to find out), but it looks like it should work. Also, 180deg reversed might not be the perfect position for C9, but a bit of test fitting should tell you what would work best.

Make sense?
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