[agamo]

Originally Posted by cogitator56

Absolutely stunning work. It's very unfortunate that you've had so much of a problem with bleed through. Have you tried Zoom-Zoom's tip of using, I think it was Zinser B.I.N. Sealer after the primer coat? It's been mentioned here before, so a search might provide the right link. Also it was written in an article in a recent issue of Scale Auto Magazine. The examples he published seem to remove the problem.

Yes, actually the body is already primed again (pics soon) and this time I used the BIN sealer, I read the article in SAE Magazine, so I gave it a try, so far it is doing fine, I ran the sealer through my airbrush diluted a little with alcohol and worked fine, then applied primer, and so far it is still white, I’ll do my best to work the white color very gently.

Originally Posted by klutz_100

My God, Ramon! You will be a Saint by the time you finish this project

I think this penitence will just make me get even… LOL

Originally Posted by klutz_100

I have an idea for you........change your color plans for the body - go with red

No, white will be…

Originally Posted by godfather23

I love the detailpainting in your interior. How do you do that? Especially painting the heating knobs...
Sorry to hear about the body and the paint issue. I wonder about the reason for all of these problems.

I paint those details most of the times with the point of a toothpick, and correct with a #11 knife, to make lines I use and old 000 brush. The reason of the problems, the hot lacquer thinner dissolves the paint under, and dissolves also the color pigment of the plastic which stains the surface finish.

Thank you Rob and Steve for your comments, and yes, I also wonder why they don’t just use white plastic…

Originally Posted by bigfrit

the thing that's a bit of a pity, IMHO, even though i couldn't make it better myself, is the lack of clear glasslike stuffs on top of the instrumentation decals...
olivier

You’re right! That is the little something that I felt it needed! Personally, I’m not a fan of adding clear over dials, since the real covers are made of antiglare material, so you won’t see any reflection when driving, but, after checking some pictures, in this case it’s perfectly applicable, since this cover is noticeable from outside the car, so I will add it, THANK YOU Olivier!!

Originally Posted by mikemechanic

Can you tell me a little more about the flocked paper?
Mike

Thank you for your comments, Mike.
The flocked paper is available normally in art and crafts stores, I got mine in a small paper store in México, but it is very common for handcraft work, I’m not completely sure about the name, in Spanish we know it as “Papel terciopelo” translated literally is “Velvet Paper” and it is a paper with very fine flock applied in one side, I hope this helps.

Thank you AllAlone.Gz, WRC_413X, Joe, Alex, Dave, mrawl and Robi for your nice comments.

Originally Posted by gionc

Terrific job on the interiors Ramon: fantastic. Sorry for the boby troubles but I'm happy you pull forward the open door's body (if you decided for the new body I buy them!!!! LOL)

Thanks Gio, I’ll keep you in mind if I go for the new body, I hope no, LOL

Originally Posted by ales

Just paint it red or black

No, white must be…

But well, into the update, with more of the chassis work…


More detail is added to the chassis, like the under-panel fasteners (PE), cables for the oxygen sensors in the catalytic converters, some washes to enhance detail, etc.

Detail view of the cables and connectors of the catalytic converters.

Next are the brake disc rotors, I used the PE parts of the AcuStion set, and added tubing and flexible hoses, and brackets for them in the hubs (front and rear).

The front suspension is now complete.

And the rear suspension is finished too; I also added the brake tubing and hoses, as well as the handbrake cables.

And it is turn for the wheels, here the hubcaps, I used the PE AcuStion set with the kit decals, I just need to add some transparent resin.

Here the finished wheel, the valve stems are Sakatsu detail parts.

Once the chassis is finished, I go back to the body, which is completely repaired and ready for primer, but before I start the painting process, I’m test fitting the side emblems, since it is necessary to bend them to the shape of the fender, and it is better to do this before the paint is applied.

After some grey primer and some sanding to correct surface problems, the B.I.N sealer is applied through airbrush, (the sealer is white) I hope this avoid the bleeding problem.

And then 2 white primer coats are applied, sanding between them to improve surface finish, so far there is no bleeding.