I did this a couple weeks ago and finally got the pics uploaded, so I figured I'd do a write-up. I don't know if you want to put it in the tech articles or not, but feel free to put it where you want.
First off, I'll start with the materials needed.
- Taillights
- A clean environment
- Masking tape
- Rubber gloves
- Bucket
- Paper Towels
- Scotch Brite Pads (Ultra Fine)
- Wax & Grease Remover
- Transparent Black Paint
For the cleaning agent, I use Dawn ORIGINAL dish soap, it cuts through grease/dirt but doesn't leave any residue when you're finished, as some other "scented" soaps do. It's also sort of a wax and grease remover for thick deposits.
You'll also need a good wax and grease remover. Being as I do alot of bodywork, I have access to full-on bodyshop materials, but any general wax and grease remover will work. If you do have access to materials like this, I suggest Final Clean, works wonders.
Next you'll need something to scuff the lights with. You can either use high-grit sandpaper (about 1000 will work), or you can get the ultra-fine scotch brite pads, which is what I use. They're a little bit easier to work with on something like this. But be absolutely sure they're the ultra fine, if they're not, you'll see the scuff scratches after you spray the lights.
And last but not least, you'll need a transparent spray. I picked up some transparent black at the local hobby shop. They usually use it for tinting windows on model cars, but it works great for smoking tails as well, I used about a can and a half I believe, so about 4.5oz of actual paint.. I believe Testors makes some transparent paint, and NiteShades make something similiar. Or if you're really good with a paint gun, you can take some black paint, reduce the hell out of it (600% or so), and spray it on in very light even coats. I will be going that route on my next pair of lights to see if it's any easier/harder.
For starters, take your bucket and put some warm water in it, and then put in some of the Dawn dish soap. Next you'll take the Scotch-Brite pad and dip it into the bucket of warm soapy water (I cut the pad into 4 smaller pieces with a razor blade because in the box we get them, they're pretty large).
Don't be afraid to get water all over when you do this, as that's the point of the water, to keep the pad lubricated so it does a better job.
Now the point of the scotch pad is to scuff up the lights so the paint has something to stick to. Paint will not stick to very smooth things, so in reality what you're doing is creating millions of tiny scratches so the paint has something to grab onto. You know you're done when you can look at the taillight in a bright light from many angles and not see ANY shiny spots. You'll know what I'm talking about when the time comes. Here's what a completely scuffed light looks like.
After you get them all scuffed up, take your time and mask off the black plastic connected to the red part of the light. I only put one strip around the whole thing because I was careful enough to not get paint on the rest of it, but if you don't trust yourself, completely mask off the whole taillight. Or if you don't care how professional it looks, don't mask off anything being as you'll be spraying black paint on black plastic, but I'm picky, so I taped it off.
Now take the wax and grease remover and a very clean paper towel, dump some wax and grease remover on the towel and wipe down the entire red part that you just scuffed. You may get it clean the first time, or it may take a few wipes to get it clean, but make sure when you're done, you can wipe down the taillight with a clean towel, and get nothing on the towel. Don't worry about getting lots of liquid on the light, being as it drys very quickly. Wait for the entire light to dry before you start painting, otherwise you'll get lots of imperfections in the light. Here's the taillight taped off and wiped down with the wax and grease remover.
Now you're ready to spray. I suggest putting on a rubber glove, because you'll have to hold the light in different positions while painting and sometimes you get a little on your hand. When painting, make sure you make even strokes, and make sure you put the coats on very, very lightly, being as the paint has a tendency to run (worse than automotive clearcoat). You'll probably have to put on about 5-10 coats depending on the darkness you want, but I can't stress enough that light coats are important, and let them dry for about 10-15 minutes between each coat, otherwise you'll get runs/sags. I made the mistake of putting on a couple coats too fast and got a few sags early on, but they were small enough that by the time I was done, they were covered up. Here's one light after about 4 coats. I wanted to go more with a dark smoked look than just a lightly smoked, so I continued to put more coats on.
I believe I put on 7-8 by the time I was done. The final pictures look alot darker than they actually are. The pics make them look black from close up, but they only look black from a ways away, the closer you get, the more you can tell they've been smoked.
Here's a pic with the flash on. As you can see, the reflectors are very visible, so there aren't any safety issues or anything like that.
I've read some articles on smoking lights where some people will clear the lights after painting, then color sand and buff them, but I don't feel all those extra steps are necessary, so I didn't do them (and this was a trial). The paint is very durable and I think it will last for as long as any regular paintjob would.
I don't have any pics of them on the car yet, mainly because I'm not totally done with it, and I'm waiting to get a center tail light that I can paint to match the car. When I get them installed, I'll get some day and night time pics, both with the lights off and the lights on, so you can see how dark they look while installed.
Feel free to leave comments (both positive and negative), and good luck if you ever get the chance to try this yourself.