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Originally Posted by inafogg
hi joe just your basic tools except axle nut socket 36mm/1 1/4 i think is the size. remove tire,brakes & caliper split upper/lower spindal joints & tie rod
remove spindal/hub assembly.hub bearing is pressed or bolted from backside
good luck
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NO NO NO....
- 30mm CV shaft socket ( on package will say will fit GM J-car )
- T-55 torx bit
- punch
- Good Metric Socket set up 22mm. Strut bolts are big suckers. I don't remember the correct size off top of my head.
- 3/8th Allen socket
- PB Blaster
- high temp CV joint grease ( normally in tubs)
- Chisle
- Hammer ( Mini 3lb sledge is a good one for this job)
1) Chock rear tires and e-brake car. Jack one side only at a time because you have aluminum wheels you cannot do step 2 while car is on ground. . Remove front tires.
2) Use 30mm and break free the CV shaft spindle nut while one wheel of the car is on the ground ( Its should be on with 185ft/lbs, might need a breaker bar or use an impact wrench)
2a) Use the punch and tap end of cv shaft in dimple till it floats free.
3) Use 3/8th Allen and remove caliper and hang from coil spring with a wire, so it doesn't dangle.
4) Remove rotors and set aside away from grease. At this time, spray the 3 torx bolts with PB blaster as they are probably rusted and they are a pain in the ass to get out. The bolts are in front towards the rotor not the back like mentioned above. These are also NOT pressed in bearing. They are whole hub assembly's!
5) Remove the 2 nuts holding the strut to the steering knuckel. The bolts are splined so take your hammer and tap them out, then separate strut from spindle. ( Normally this will cause you to need an alignment when doing such a maneuver but on J-cars our front camber only changes less than a degree, toeing is the only thing that changes when you replace tie rods and since your not going to touch them don't worry about em. Trust me, i have torn apart plenty of J's and lowered many then went to get alignments on them. The previous camber was only off at most -.7 degrees. )
6) Maneuver the CV shaft out of the spindle. Notice no seal back there, thank GM for that one.
7) PB blast the torx bolts again, and go get something to drink and turn on your favorite stress releasing music. I prefer something hard core metal.
8) Get the 3 pain in the ass torx's bolts out through the hole in the hub which you can pass your wrench through.
9) Now your hub is probably rusted to your spindle, get the chisel out and start going around the perimeter and pry the damn thing free. Depending on how bad its rusted on there this might take a while. Keep adding PB blaster and letting it sit. You can also try hitting it from the back through the hole since your replacing them with new hubs it won't matter if you destroy the inner bearings.
10) Install new hub assembly.
11) Put grease in back of new hub but first clean it out by any means possible and install new seal in box if it came with one and then reinstall everthing in reverse order. I used TIMKIN bearings and they came with new seals.
Any other questions just ask, i can't count how many times i've done these damn things...