Quote:
Originally posted by NSX-R-SSJ20K
how about a new cam set up with just one high rpm cam instead of the VTEC and econ Cam !
the main reason why they have VTEC and econo cams is because the VTEC cam doesn't idle
i vote turbo myself its soo much fun
they start thinking they are winning then the turbo spools up and the boost comes running thru like bulls thru a spanish town .......FREAKING FAST ........then they get pissed cuz they been beat by a Volvo
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Don't get me wrong.. i'm down the with turbo... Were i actully planning on keeping my civic past maybe a B18c1 swap i would probably end up getting an oversized turbo just for the purpse of messing with people. get something retarded like a t64 and use a little shot of no2 to get spooled if i was having problems. if i were to do that i'd need to go balls out on the block. For the H22 metioned by the original poster, supercharger is what i'd suggest unless he plans on releasing the rights to his left nut in order to build that motor to take the additional boost that makes turbos worth having. As i already said, H22s are not boost friendly; i don't recall exactly how much boost they are good for, but i don't think it was more than about 9 psi. If you're only going to boost 9 psi, why bother with a turbo? with a JRSC the h22 runs very strong as long as your clutch can hold the power. Guy with the JRSCed lude raced my friend with a 93 rx7. mods on the 7 included i/d/e and non seq turbo conv. on a 40 punch the 7 pulled -maybe- a fender on the lude to 140. i think there are vids online, but i don't remember the page.. if you want them i can try to find them. with a new clutch to hold the power, an LSD and some drag radials or better yet, slicks, that lude will be knocking on low 13s, maybe even high 12s with some super badass driving. i know the vtec on that car is insain so why not take advanatage of the all around gain of a blower and get extra power throughout the entire rev range.
About the cams... bear with me if i'm thinking retarded; i've had a very very long last two days... but if i'm thinking right, on a DOHC motor, one cam controls exhaust flow and one cam controls intake flow. i may have missunderstood what you were trying to say, but it sound like you are saying one cam is vtec and one cam is economic. both cams in a DOHC vtec car are vtec cams. vtec is a differnt lobe on the same cam that is more aggressive which gives more top end power. Even though you have two cams, vtec makes it seem as if you have four since on the low end the cam is very tame and fuel economic (and also idles very nicely), but on the top end when vtec kicks, the cam is more aggressive. I am all for getting a differnt cams that have a more aggressive vtec lobe; however, unless you don't plan on driving your car daily, getting non-vtec cams (meaning you'd have to disable vtec which is a whole other task) that are very aggressive doesn't seem economical or logical. Your gas milage will likely drop, your idle would suck, and most of all, if you already had vtec you could have gotten the same top end gains by just getting a pair of more aggressive vtec cams and still kept your low end goodness. So to answer your thought: if you already have a vtec motor, rather than getting a pair of agressive non-vtec cams, unless you plan on going all out race (meaning big turbo pushing some gawdaweful psi), you are better off to get more agressive cams which takes advanatage of your vtec.
On a side note: if you have a non-vtec motor such as a ZC, b20, or b18b, putting more agressive cams in makes sense since you don't have the ability to, in effect, change cams in the middle of you powerband. Just be careful not to get a cam that is too aggressive as that will hurt your streetablity by making you idle very rough and drink your gas like crazy (and more likely that not also hurt your low end torque).
Last point on cams/vtec: if you are building a race only car with a fat ass turbo pushing 20+psi, you'll end up being better off disabling vtec since the turbo will more than make up for the valve timing. I believe most drag cars run a very very aggressive cam and just idle like crap. it doesn't really matter since they don't have to be driven more than 200 yards to the starting line and then they can go all out. just some food for thought :smoka:
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1998 Yellow Civic Coupe 5spd EX
Wings West Avenger Kit
Z3 Fenders
c/f hood
Custom Spa Yellow (s2000) paint job
Blacked out taillights
triple beam projector headlights
16" Enkei TBS11s w/Paradas all wrapped around them
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short shifter and Neuspeed shifter bushings
Pioneer DEH-P7300 CD player w/6CD changer
orion 800.4 xtreme amp, 2x 12" eclipse subs, and some 6.5" Focal componts from the polyglass line (6v1)
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GSR Swap and hopefully some sponsorship?