[Didymus]

I don't think artists' masking liquid works very well on models. It always stays rubbery, so you can't trim it neatly with a blade.

Micro Mask works very well if you apply it right: a thin coat first, and then a thick dollop over the thin. The "range" of the thick glop will be more or less limited by the thin coat. It takes a while to dry, but unlike artists' Maskit, you can trim it very cleanly.

As far as removal goes, if you can lift an edge, the rest will easily follow suit. I really like Steve's solution of using a bit of adjoining masking tape as a handle to lift that crucial edge. I'll try it the next time I use MM. Or use the sticky side of just about any kind of tape. Warm water works, too, but requires quite a bit of toothbrushing.

I'm have a lot of 1/8" Great Planes striping tape and like it, but most people recommend Tamiya. I'll try it when this stuff runs out. Scotch/3M makes some blue "Delicate Surface" masking tape that works well for large areas. It's not the standard 3M semi-glossy blue masking tape that makes very clean edges but which is a little too sticky for delicate models.

I just ran into the panel gap seepage problem. I got some great advice on another forum. First burnish the inside edge of the tape. Then spray either body color or clearcoat along the edge. That seals it. After it dries, you can apply your stripe (or whatever) and not worry about seepage under the tape. To keep from lifting the new paint, remove the tape before it's fully dry. That's especially important with acrylics and enamels, which cure as tough, thin sheets that lift before they tear.

Diddy