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Originally Posted by skywalker45
Thanks MT. Only problem is that the car won't run at all so doing a test with engine running is not possible. I will say it runs fine while spraying ether into the intake. In my opinion (I'm not sure about yours) the fuel line should hold pressure after turning the key to on and allowing the pump to pressurize the system. The drop to zero psi after this initial pressurization tells me that either:
1. There could be a leak somewhere (I did change the fuel filter) but I don't see any leaking fuel.
2. The pressure regulator attached to the fuel meter body is bad.
3. The fuel pump is able to initially pressurize the system but then somehow fails either through backflow through the pump if it's faulty.
I'm going to try to take some more measurements today. Right now the battery is low from trying to start it so once that's charged I'll try this again.
In your opinion do you think a bad pressure regulator at the injector module would cause the pressure to drop to zero? It seems to me that if this device is causing a low pressure situation then the poppet valves will not open. Since I already purchased the part there's no way I'm not going to replace it. I'm almost $300 into this repair and I'm wanting to pull out my hair. Thanks for all your consideration.
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If engine will not run you can hook up a 12 volt fused jumper to the fuel pump power gray wire for pressure testing.
Pressure can leak of several places.
But first make sure the fuel pump is capable of putting out full pressure of 75-90 lbs of fuel pressure.
Blocking off return may help test it but the true test is the direct pressure from fuel pump while it is running.
Unplug the in line to fuel filter and test direct pressure there.
But do not run fuel pump at full pressure for longer than a fast test.
Mt