[jeffcoslacker]

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. If so equipped, disable the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), as described in Chassis Electrical .
2. Remove the wheel cover or hubcap from the front wheel and then remove the center cap.
3. Pull out the 4mm cotter pin and loosen but do not remove the spindle nut. Loosen the lugnuts.
4. Raise and safely support the front of the vehicle on jackstands. Double check the stand placement and the security of the support.
5. Remove the wheel lug nuts and the wheel.
6. Pry up the lock tabs and remove the large spindle nut.
7. Drain the transaxle.
8. Using a ball joint separator, remove the lower arm ball joints from the knuckle. Disconnect the tie rods from the steering knuckle.

Fig. 1: Use a ball joint separator to disconnect the ball joints

1. On cars using a lower control arm, disconnect the stabilizer bar retaining bolts and free the bar.
2. On later cars with the "wishbone" suspension, remove the damper fork bolt and the damper pinch bolt.
3. To remove the halfshaft, hold the knuckle and move it outwards while sliding the shaft out of the hub.

Fig. 2: Hold the knuckle and move it outwards while sliding the shaft out of the hub

1. At the inboard or transaxle end, pry the CV-joint out about 1/2 in. (13mm). Prying the axle outward causes an internal snapring to come out of its locking groove. Pry carefully to avoid damaging the oil seal.

Fig. 3: Pry the joint out of the differential case ...

1. Carefully pull the inboard side of the driveshaft out of the differential case.

Fig. 4: ... then carefully pull the inboard side of the driveshaft out of the differential case

To install:

1. Replace the snapring on the inboard end of the axle.
2. Install the inner end of the axle to the transaxle. The splined fitting and clip must fit all the way into position; the clip will engage with a noticeable click. Double check it by prying lightly against it; don't pull on the CV-joint to test it.
3. Pull the front hub outward and install the outer end of the halfshaft.
4. Reassemble the suspension and steering ball joints. Use new cotter pins and new self-locking nuts for each fitting. Tighten the individual components as follows:
   • 1984-85 Accord: Stabilizer bar bolts, 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm); lower ball joint 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm); tie rod castle nut, 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
   • 1986-95 Accord: Damper pinch bolt, 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm); damper fork or lower locknut, 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm); lower ball joint castle nut, 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
   • 1984-95 Prelude: Damper pinch bolt, 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm); damper fork or lower locknut, 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
   • 1984-87 and 1990-95 Prelude: Lower ball joint castle nut, 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
   • 1988-89 Prelude: Lower ball joint castle nut, 54 ft. lbs. (75 Nm ).

1. Install the washer and a new spindle nut. Tighten the nut very snug but do not attempt to achieve final torque with the vehicle elevated.
2. Install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Tighten the spindle nut. Correct torque for the spindle nut is:
   • 1984-89 Accord: 134 ft. lbs. (185 Nm)
   • 1990-93 Accord: 180 ft. lbs. (245 Nm)
   • 1984-87 Prelude: 137 ft. lbs. (190 Nm)
   • 1988-89 Prelude: 134 ft. lbs. (185 Nm)
   • 1994-95 Accord and 1990-95 Prelude: 181 ft. lbs. (250 Nm)

1. Use a drift or punch to deform the ring on the spindle nut into the groove in the axle. This locks the nut in place.
2. Tighten the lug nuts.
3. Refill the transaxle.
4. If applicable, enable the SRS as described in Chassis Electrical .
5. Connect the negative battery cable.

Some advice from experience:

1. The spindle nuts will probably be seized as hell. Loosen them before raising the car off the ground or removing the wheels. Lock the e-brake and put it in park, and park it against a curb stop or something if possible. If you still can't break them loose, drive it over to a service station and have them break them loose with an impact wrench if you don't have one. Then hand tighten (tight!) and remove when you get back to where you are working on the car.

2. The damper fork bolt isn't going to come out unless you have a torch, most likely. Don't drive yourself crazy trying. Cut the larger clamp on the inside boot once you have the shaft out of the transaxle. Stretch the joint and it'll come apart. Pull it through the fork with the inner joint off the shaft. Look at how it goes together, it's just three bearings on a spider trunnion. They slip into grooves inside the housing.

Cut the clamp on the new axle, pull the joint apart. DON"T LET THE BEARINGS DROP OR GET DIRTY! Set the bearings aside in a clean place. Push the shaft through the fork, put the bearings back on the spider, being careful not to allow any grit or dirt, and put the housing back on so the bearings are in their grooves. Keep the joint pushed together and install a new clamp on the boot with the tool you can rent at AutoZone. Clamps are about $2.

3. Your front coil springs are probably broken at the bottom. Check while you're in there....

4. The splined outboard end of the shaft usually doesn't want to come out of the spindle...spray with WD-40 and tap with a plastic hammer or a wood block and hammer...DON'T HIT THE SHAFT WITH A HAMMER!

5. On your year the manual tranny uses engine oil (10W40). Don't fill it with gear lube. Check the manual first. And don't forget to fill it after finishing the job, or you'll grenade the differential...I don't know if you have manual or automatic. Be sure you have what you need to put in there. I'm pretty sure the automatic just uses ATF in the diff...

6. Your stabilizer links have to come apart to do this job. They will most likely break before coming apart. Be aware they are not generally available at parts stores. (I don't know why) Plan ahead.

7. On step #2 of the install instructions, it's critical that you understand both that the shaft MUST be snapped into place, and if you pull out on the shaft to see if it's snapped in, you'll make the inner joint fall apart...pry against the inner joint like they said, don't pull on the shaft! This is where the majority of these jobs go horribly wrong with first-timers....the joint falls apart or isn't snapped into place, and the axle falls apart a block down the street, sometimes damaging the diff...