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Old 07-23-2007, 04:06 PM
denisond3 denisond3 is offline
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Re: Question on '97 Avalon Timing Belt Change

I just finished replacing the timing belt on a sister-in-laws 99 Avalon. The car had 135,000 miles on it, and had the original belt, water pump, and everything else on its V6, the 1MZFE1 engine. It was in fine condition, but...had gradually begun a steady misfiring on 1 cylinder. First I replaced what looked like the original spark plugs - but it still was misfiring. I pulled the plug wires off one by one, and learned it was cylinder #5 - closest to the brake booster. I did a compression check, and all cylinders read over 200 psi. So I assumed it was a bad injector. Since I was going to be under the hood for a while, I also decided I would replace whatever else was 'due'. The new timing belt and its idler pulleys of course, the water pump because it was now easy to reach (the original one wasnt leaking at all yet) - and of course the radiator hoses. I had a close look at the crankshaft seal and the camshaft seals. They werent oozing oil at all; so I left them alone. There is a 'transfer' hose buried beneath the intake manifold on this engine, which I also replaced, just because it would probably never be so convenient to do it again (in a shady location in my driveway, with dry weather and no hurry).
The new injector fixed the misfire, and after a days driving the check engine light went out. The total parts cost was under $300. The 'new' injector was a reconditioned item from ebay.com for $40. I didnt charge for labor - Im retired and this is a hobby with me, but it probably took at least 15 hours of my time to complete the job. The work wasnt too difficult, and I never had to use my oxy-acetylene torch to get any rusted bolts loose. Toyota used good alloys on this product.
The hardest part was removing and then retorquing the bolt that holds the crankshaft vibration damper and pulley. After removing the access plate for the torque converter bolts, I put a 5/8" socket into one of the holes in the flex plate (that has the starter ring teeth on it) - and let that 'jam' against the side of the oil pan. I would estimate it took over 300 lbs-ft to loosen that bolt. Before I undid the bolt I had marked its location relative to the pulley with 'dimples' using a center-punch. That way I could tighten it back to the original setting - since my torque wrench only reads to 160 lbs-ft, and it was -way- tighter than the the 197 lbs-ft the Chiltons manual called for. It seemed to take about 300 lbs-ft to put it back in the same place; i.e. my weight (200 lbs) pushing down at the end of an 18" lever arm.
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