[wiswind]

Be SUPER carefull with the IMRC actuators.....I left mine installed and connected...and was able to move them very slightly to get at the end bolt by each one.

Also, use a BEAM type of torque wrench....and remember that it is INCH POUNDS.

Use a drop of sensor safe RTV sealant at each end of the "end seal" as I show in my pictures.....normally black in color.
The lower manifold gaskets are DRY fitted.....nothing added.
Use ONLY wood or nylon / plastic tooling to remove any residue from the gasket mating surfaces.....metal....INCLUDING razer blades will leave scratches in the alluminium...which can wick coolant.....causing a leak.
Sovents can be used to soften any stubborn junk......then clean the surfaces to remove oil.

When you set the lower intake down....place it on towels to protect the gasket seating surfaces from scratching.

This is a good time to thoroughly clean the EGR ports, and the IMR "butterflies".
The EGR valve seems to be reliable on these....even though this is an easy time to change it.

I replaced the "bypass" or "crossover" pipe that goes in on the driver side....and has the "U" shaped hose on the driver side that connects to the pipe that comes off the top of the water pump.
Mine was still fine.....but it was easiest to change it at this time....and it is good to get that "U" hose changed even if the metal pipe is still fine.

My heater hose that connects to the top of the passenger side of the lower intake manifold had a "quick" connect connector.....this requires a special tool to remove....and mine still fell apart due to age / heat.
You can buy a kit that has new clips.....mine was 3/4" size.....make CERTAIN that you get the "O" gaskets back in place or you will have serious leakage.

This is a good time to replace the heater hoses......the in and out, as I recall are different sizes.....and this will be the easiest time to replace them.
Also the upper radiator hose.
It is not easier to do the lower radiator hose now.....but if you have the coolant drained...........

Of course....you MUST change the engine oil and filter before starting the engine....as much coolant will still get into the crankcase.....you will hear it right when you lift up on the lower intake manifold and break the seal.

The advice on the plug wires is very good.....as, if they are original.....it is time.
Same for the spark plugs......stay away from the fancy Bosch that they push at the auto part stores......they are not correct for our application.
Motorcraft or Autolite brand of double platinumn are the correct spark plug.

My lower intake manifold gaskets were replaced last March....and they are still doing fine.
I just had my vehicle in for a super thorough going over......and they felt that the engine / transmission are performing "perfectly".
They were very impressed with the overall condition and thought the vehicle is good to go for several more RELIABLE years.
I plan to keep my '96 3.8L with 183K miles at least a few more years......as long as it is reliable.....

If you are doing the brake master cylinder....you might consider a new vaccum hose to the booster.....and CERTAINLY get a new pressure switch for the bottom of the master cylinder.