[mickytrus]

Yeah, thanks on the input there Zag...
Do you think while I am replacing all that
hose... I might as well replace the check
valves on the feed and the return....
and if so.... how close does the return
one need to be to the tank... it is in
a precarious spot right now..... If
it is within one foot of the tank...
is that ok....
You talk about the banjo bolt and
the bleed screw on the top of the
filter base..... My filter set up is
the newer style... C-clip and O-ring
no bleed screw..... Is there a bleeder
on the IP??
Yeah, those tiny worm clamps are
"for the worms" I think I am gonna
take you up on the single spreader
clamps... the worms ruin the hose.
and if you dont crank on them they
loosen up...
Yeah it would be nice to get a little
translucent plastic tubing.......
from the rear wheels to the front
of the vehicle is the plastic. I mean
it looks healthy still...
Here is another question for you..
The stuff on the car now is all oem...
so it is plastic and then the crip connect
to the rubber....... (like a pressure side power steering hose)
I was figuring I can cut it with a plumbers tubing cutter and
then get some of those tubing inserts to stick in the hose so it
doesn't collapse when tightened....
Does that seem to make sense?
and those inserts you think that is "go to the dealer stuff"
Also I noticed when I was messing with the hoses...
the connection for the (5/16 feed line) in the IP...
It has a bolt through it(banjo style) and the a little
nipple threads into the collar that the bolt holds donw.
well, the nipple was loose... I spun it (1/4 turn) with the
hose still attached... now it is tight but is it sucking air????hmmm
So what is the connection here at the IP about...
Could you describe it......
Two copper washers on the banjo bolt?
and this nipple? Is it really threaded??? Is it pressed in?
Is mine malfunctioning???????
thanks