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Originally Posted by maxwedge
TB alone should clear. Also use some RTV around it for insurance, tricky re-engaging the gear to the cam and oil pump, mark every thing before removing and note the position it is in as you remove it and reverse the procedure exactly, do not crank the engine for any reason during this procedure.
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After fixing this problem, I will add a few helpful tips.
The entire upper plenum has to come off, in order to gain access to the oil pump drive. Just leave the TB on so you have one less gasket to buy, as it is a spendy one.
Also there is the heater bypass hose that comes off of the lower intake/thermostat housing. You might have to turn the nut slightly to get the bolt out that holds the drive asm clamp down. I would recomend replacing the o-rings that are used in this heater hose asm. I had a slow drip after putting it all back together because I moved the heater hose nut, which in turn probably moved the old, brittle o-rings contained inside the fitting.
I stuck some Mendtite in the radiator and the drip stopped, but only as I did not feel like ripping it all apart again as it is the ONLY way to get at the heater bypass.
If it acts up again I will have to deal with it I guess.
But at least no more oil leaks. The old o-ring was very dry and brittle, and cracked easliy.
There is no need to mark any thing on the drive asm though, as all it does is connect the cam to the oil pump. There is not a wrong way to install it, but it does take a little patience getting the gears to mesh.